More Concoctions of From the Beer Engineer

CEI PUBLISHING
A Division of
Crossfire Engineering Inc.
217 Magnolia Street 5830 West turkey Lane

John Gosselink a brewer from Pella, Iowa. Mary Samuels a brewer from Olympia, Washington. Caroline Williams a brewer from Corpus Christi, Texas. Harold R. Wood BS, BHS, MS is a longtime brewer and registered Toxicologist from Santa Rita, Guam. Thomas E. Arduini, BS, is a homebrewer and Laboratory Technician from West Haven, Connecticut. Michael A. Pascucilla, BS, RS is a homebrewer and Registered Sanitarian from West Suffield, Connecticut. And last but not least, ST a homebrewer and LAN Specialist from Atlanta, Georgia.

Special Editors
O.B. from Waldmüenchen, Germany and Somers, Ct.
Karin Cioto from Berlin, Germany and Vernon, Ct.
Berni Hartmann from Kassel, Germany and Ellington, Ct.
Dave Levesque of Forrestville, CT

All rights reserved. Copyright laws prohibit the reproduction of this book, either whole or in part, in any form, without the written permission of Crossfire Engineering Inc. and the author. Recognized critics may quote brief passages of the book. Storage of this book in any type of retrieval system is not allowed. Any type of retrieval system means any form or any means including, but not limited to, electronic, photocopying, magnetic, computer disk, film, or microfilm.

This technical reference manual started as a simple update of my original book, Concoction of a Beer Engineer. But, sometime during the addition of the many new sections and the correction of my grammar and spelling errors, I realized that it had taken on a life of its own. Suddenly, a unique new handbook was born.

Most of the material in this manual is directed toward the brewing of German beers. Other beer styles are covered, but the primary topic is German brewing. Both my wife and I come from German families and have been around the German brewing tradition all our lives.

This Technical Reference Manual was published, in part, to share my thirty-five years of traditional German brewing experience with all of you. The brewing Hints in this technical reference manual will help you to understand the simplicity and excellence of the German brewing process.

Never be afraid to brew any style of beer you wish. Because most brewing books cover the fine English brewing tradition, this manual was designed to supply the other side of the coin, German brewing. Remember, behind every English bitter, there is a fine German beer.

More Concoctions from the Beer Engineer is not your typical brewing novel. It is a technical reference manual for brewers who want to control their brewing process. While some text and graphics in this manual have been taken from Concoction of a Beer Engineer, many new subjects, and a great deal of new information, graphs and tables, not available when Concoction of a Beer Engineer was first printed, have been incorporated into this manual. This manual goes far beyond the scope of the original document and provides more detailed, yet still simple, procedures for the brewing of World Class beers.

0 Give you 79 unique World Class beer recipes that include detailed hop schedules, starting gravities,

final gravities, alcohol levels, international bittering units (ibu), combined flavor units (cfu), and combined aroma units (cau) for selection, comparison, and illustration.

0 Give you equivalent grain malt to malt extract conversions for the convenience of the all grain

0 Give a unique recipe selection chart for selecting the right beer for you. The chart gives the starting

gravity, final gravity, ibu, cfu, cau, type of beer, name, number, alcohol content, color, and page number. All recipes are in the order of starting gravity and ascending ibu for easy selection.

0 How to design your own hop schedules to get the exact hop bitterness, flavor, and aroma (nose) you

prefer. These sections include corrections for hop alpha acid, hop utilization, type of hop used,

amount of the hop used, and the volume and the Specific Gravity of the boiling medium.

0 How to predict the alcohol level, starting gravity, final gravity, color, hop bitterness, hop flavor, hop
nose (aroma), and carbonation level of any beer before you start to brew.

0 How to use the specialty grains like Crystal, Chocolate, Black, Cara-Pils, and other grains with the

0 How to use small quantities of lager, ale, wheat, and other malt grains, normally requiring mashing,

0 How to carbonate your bottled beer with speise, Dry Malt Extract (DME), or Dextrose (Corn or

0 How to carbonate your kegged beer with speise, Dry Malt Extract (DME), or Dextrose (Corn or

0 Provide thirteen Figures and Graphs along with twenty-six Tables, many of which are not found in

0 Provide over eighty brewing hints and tips with many clarification notes to improve your beers.

0 Show you differing points of view, expressed by the editors, and explanations of each of their

WARNING!Ein jeder spricht vom vielen Trinken -

doch niemand sprecht vom großen Durst!

I An Introduction to Brewing........................................................................................................ 1

II Brewing Your First All Natural Beer......................................................................................... 5

1 Step, Brewing the Beer..................................................................................................

Select the Beer. ..................................................................................................... 5

Sanitize.................................................................................................................. 5

Remove the Labels & Yeast Pack......................................................................... 5

Rehydrate the Yeast. ............................................................................................ 5

Mixing the wort. ................................................................................................... 5

Fill the fermenter. ................................................................................................. 6

Stir the Wort.......................................................................................................... 6

Beer Log................................................................................................................ 6

2 Step, Fermenting.............................................................................................................

The Airlock........................................................................................................... 6

The Spigot Nozzle. ............................................................................................... 6

Fermentation......................................................................................................... 7

3 Step, Bottling the Beer....................................................................................................

Sanitize.................................................................................................................. 8

Airlock Deactivation............................................................................................. 8

Racking.................................................................................................................. 8

Priming.................................................................................................................. 9

Filling the bottles. ................................................................................................ 9

Carbonation........................................................................................................................ 9

Aging and Drinking............................................................................................................ 9

Controlling the Alcohol Content...................................................................................... 10

III Improving Your Kit Beers......................................................................................................... 13

General Information......................................................................................................... 13

General Improvement.. ....................................................................................... 13

Adding Malt Flavor & Aroma. . ......................................................................... 13

Adding Hop Flavor & Aroma.. ........................................................................... 13

The 8 by 15 Kit Schedule. ............................................................................................... 14

Hopping Tricks. ............................................................................................................... 15

German Blend . ................................................................................................... 15

English Blend...................................................................................................... 15

What More Can I Do?...................................................................................................... 15

IV General Hopping Information.................................................................................................... 17

Hop Boiling........................................................................................................................ 18

Simple Hop Schedules....................................................................................................... 18

Making Your Own Wort Chiller........................................................................................ 19

The Right Hop for the Job................................................................................................. 20

General Hopping in Brief. ................................................................................................ 20

V Taste That Wonderful Hop Flavor............................................................................................ 21

Hop Flavor Utilization....................................................................................................... 22

Standard Flavor Hop Flavor Schedules. ............................................................ 23

Combined Flavor Unit (CFU)............................................................................................ 24

Hop Flavor In Brief............................................................................................................ 26

VI Ah! Can'tya Smell That Hop...................................................................................................... 29

Aroma Utilization (AU)..................................................................................................... 30

1 Aroma Schedule..............................................................................................

2 Aroma Schedule. .............................................................................................

3 Aroma Schedule...............................................................................................

Standard Hop Aroma Schedules. ...................................................................................... 31

8 by 15 Kit Schedule Aroma.............................................................................................. 32

Combined Aroma Units (CAU)......................................................................................... 32

The KFactor......................................................................................................... 33

Dry Hopping. .................................................................................................................... 34

Intensity of CAU................................................................................................................ 34

Hop Aroma in Brief........................................................................................................... 35

VII Sweet Bitterness. ......................................................................................................................... 37

International Bittering Units. ............................................................................................ 37

Bittering Utilization........................................................................................................... 38

Hop Form. ............................................................................................................ 38

Specific Gravity Effect on BU............................................................................ 39

Bittering Utilization Calculations......................................................................... 40

Bitterness of a Beer........................................................................................................... 41

Alpha Acid........................................................................................................... 41

Total Brewing Volume......................................................................................... 42

Hop Boiling Time................................................................................................. 42

Hop Weight........................................................................................................... 42

Hop Form or Type. .............................................................................................. 43

International Bittering Units Calculations......................................................................... 43

Total Bitterness.................................................................................................................. 46

Computing the Alpha Acid Units for a Hop Blend........................................................... 46

Bittering in Brief................................................................................................................ 47

VIII The Mini-Mash................................................................................................................................... 49

The Mini-Mash Process..................................................................................................... 50

Mini-Mash Equipment.......................................................................................... 51

Mini-Mash Ingredients......................................................................................... 51

How to Mini-Mash............................................................................................................. 52

	Black. .......................................... 55	Wheat ...............................	56
	Cara-pils....................................... 55	RoastedBarey. ..................	57
	Chocolate..................................... 55	Lager.................................	57
	Crystal.......................................... 55	Ale....................................	57
	München. .................................... 56	Toasted ............................	57
	Vienna.......................................... 56	Rauch. ..............................	57
	Mini-Mash Process in Brief........................		57
IX	Beer Predictions. ...................................................		59
	Degree Of Extract. .....................................		59
	Gravity of a Beer...........................		60
	Terminal Degree of Extract. .........		61
	Predicting the Beer. ...................................		61
	Effective Start & Finish Weight....		63
	Effective Start & Finish Gravity.		63
	Alcohol Content Prediction........................		63
	Real Gravity................................................		66
	What About the Color?. .............................		66
	Beer Predictions in Brief............................		66
X	Planning Your Hop Schedules..............................		67
	Determine the Total IBU............................		67
	Determine the Hop Flavor..........................		68
	Determine the Hop Aroma.........................		69
	Planning Your Hop Schedule in Brief........		73

Getting Ready....................................................................................................... 52

The Mash............................................................................................................. 52

The Simple Mini-Mash........................................................................... 52

The Complex Mini-Mash. ...................................................................... 53

Mashing Temperatures.............................................................. 53

Getting the Juice:. ............................................................................................... 54

Finishing off the Mini-Mash................................................................................ 54

Grains Used in the Recipes............................................................................................... 55

XI Making the Bubbles. ................................................................................................................... 75

Priming Variables. ............................................................................................................ 75

Altitude................................................................................................................. 75

Level of Carbonation. .......................................................................................... 76

Volume of Beer.................................................................................................... 76

Priming Ingredients.............................................................................................. 76

Bottles................................................................................................................... 77

Priming Methods............................................................................................................... 77

Speise Priming. .................................................................................................... 77

Krausening............................................................................................... 77

Raw Beer................................................................................................. 77

Dry Malt Extract Speise. ........................................................................ 77

Measured Dry Priming......................................................................................... 77

Cup Measured Dry Malt Extract............................................................. 77

Cup Measured Corn Sugar...................................................................... 77

Priming with Speise........................................................................................................... 78

Priming with Dry Measured Amounts............................................................................... 79

Priming with Dry Malt Extract (DME). .............................................................. 79

Priming with Corn Sugar (Dextrose). .................................................................. 80

Making the Bubbles in Brief............................................................................................. 81

XII Be Kind to Your Little Beasties................................................................................................. 83

Types of Yeasts................................................................................................................. 83

General Precautions........................................................................................................... 84

Forms of Commercial Yeasts............................................................................................ 84

Dried Yeast Rehydration................................................................................................... 85

Wort Inoculation. .............................................................................................................. 86

Yeast in Brief..................................................................................................................... 86

XIII Culturing a Yeast. ............................................................................................................................. 89

Cultures.............................................................................................................................. 90

Preparing the Culture Tubes................................................................................. 90

Inoculating the Culture Medium.......................................................................... 91

The Yeast Starter............................................................................................................... 92

Preparing the Yeast Starter................................................................................... 92

Using the Yeast Starter......................................................................................... 92

Culturing a Yeast in Brief................................................................................................. 93

XIV To Keg or Not to Keg?................... Keg Choices....................... Serving Keg Beer............... Forced Carbonation............ Carbonation by Priming..... Kegging in Brief. ...............			95 95 97 98 99 99
XV Recipes............................................			101
Abbreviations in Recipes.			103
Die Altkastanie ............................................	140	Des Königs Lieblingsbier. ...........................	129
Der Altmeister .............................................	114	Das Kosewort Bräu. .....................................	106
Der Altschatz . .............................................	108	Die LeuchtBombe ........................................	118
Der Amerikaner . .........................................	115	Der Löwe . ...................................................	116
Der ange. Tippelbruder ...............................	141	Der Luftkopf. ...............................................	112
Der Ausgang.................................................	121	Das mutige Eichhörnchen ............................	119
Das Bajonettstoß .........................................	115	Der Nachruf . ...............................................	105
Der Barbare .................................................	130	Die Nacht . ...................................................	117
Der Besserwisser..........................................	123	Das Neuschlossstein ....................................	139
Der Betrüger.................................................	117	Der Niedrigste am Baum .............................	128
Die Böse Hex...............................................	111	Der Nussknacker ..........................................	138
Der Buschklepper.........................................	132	Pils `R' Us ....................................................	122
Corks' Gold. .................................................	133	Das Plappermaul. .........................................	120
Die Dampfwalze...........................................	112	Die Rauchfahne.............................................	137
Das Drachenblut. .........................................	109	Der Rekrut.....................................................	114
Die Endlösung .............................................	111	Der Rote Baron ............................................	126
Der Engländer .............................................	116	Der Schäker ..................................................	142
Das Erste Gebräu . .......................................	120	Der Schalk.....................................................	107
Der Furier.....................................................	113	Die Schaukel ................................................	137
G. Addams Dec Lager..................................	133	Der Schlauberger..........................................	107
G. Addams Oktoberfest . .............................	134	Das Schreckbild............................................	108
G. Addams Mass Lager ...............................	134	Die Schwartze ..............................................	109
Das Gewölbe des Himmels .........................	135	Der Schwarze Hund . ...................................	105
Das Hafermehl Bräu.....................................	138	Der Schwertstreich........................................	140
Das Heinzelmännchen . ...............................	110	Der Schwindler.............................................	110
Der Heizkörper.............................................	135	Der Spritzer...................................................	124
Der Himmelswagen......................................	136	Der Steife Bock.............................................	106
Der Hindernisläufer . ...................................	127	Der Struwwelpeter . .....................................	130
Der Höllenbrand...........................................	124	Die Taschenlampe.........................................	118
Der Höllenschlung . ....................................	131	Der Tautropfen Wirthaus .............................	122
Das Irrenhaus . ............................................	128	This Pud's for You........................................	132
Der Jabo.......................................................	113	Der Übungsplatz ..........................................	121
Der Kajak.....................................................	127	Der Verrückte................................................	139
Der Kläffer...................................................	125	Die Verschämte.............................................	126
Die Klapperschlange....................................	140
Die Kleine Eisenbahn. ................................	131
Die Kletterrose ............................................	141
Die Knallkörper . ........................................	119
Der Kommandant.........................................	136

XV Tables and Charts...................................................................................................................... 143

I General Hop Usage Information........................................................................ 143

II Hop Flavor Magnitude VS. CFU Range............................................................ 144

III Hop Aroma (Nose) KFactor............................................................................... 144

IV Hop Aroma Magnitude VS. CAU Range........................................................... 145

V Hop Utilization................................................................................................... 146

VI Bitterness Magnitude VS. IBU Range............................................................... 147

VII Summary of Standard Hop Schedules. .............................................................. 148

VIII Beer Style VS. IBU Factor...................................................................................... 149

IX Degree of Extract and Color............................................................................... 150

X Ethyl Alcohol..................................................................................................... 151

XI Priming Rate Correction for Altitude................................................................. 152

XII Priming Rates for DME, Speise, and Corn Sugar.............................................. 152

For Rehydration of Dry Yeasts............................................................. 153

XIV Comparison of Dry & Liquid Yeasts...................................................................... 153

XV Recipe Selection Chart....................................................................................... 154

XVI Temperature Corrections for SG. ........................................................................... 158

XVII U.S. Fluid Ounce Conversion Factors. ................................................................. 158

XVIII U.S. Gallon Conversion Factors........................................................................... 159

XIX Foreign to U.S. Liquid Conversions....................................................................... 160

XX U.S. Ounce Weight Conversion Factors............................................................ 160

XXI U.S. Pound Weight Conversion Factors................................................................. 160

XXII Large U.S. Conversion Factors............................................................................. 161

XXIII Effective Bitterness Units ................................................................................... 161

XXIV Manufacturers' EBU Correction Factors. ........................................................... 161

XXV Alcohol Content VS. Alcohol Indication.............................................................. 162

XXVI Total SRM VS. Color........................................................................................... 162

A Hydrometer Readings............................................................................................................... 163

How to Use Your Hydrometer........................................................................................ 163

Hydrometer Temperature Correction.............................................................................. 164

B Effective Bittering Units............................................................................................................ 165

Effective Bitterness Units (EBU). .................................................................................. 165

Manufacturers' EBU Correction Factor.......................................................................... 165

C Determinationof Alcohol Content............................................................................................ 167

D Installing a Bottling Spigot. ..................................................................................................... 169

E Care and Handling of Bottles and Kegs.................................................................................. 171

Sanitation........................................................................................................................ 171

Initial Cleaning. .............................................................................................................. 171

Between Use Cleaning.................................................................................................... 171

Sanitizing before filling. ................................................................................................ 172

Labeling........................................................................................................................... 172

Bottling Tips. .................................................................................................................. 176

F Concoction Log.......................................................................................................................... 178

G Brew Evaluation Sheet.............................................................................................................. 179

H Dry Yeast Brewing Checklist................................................................................................... 180

I Yeast Culture Brewing Checklist............................................................................................. 181

J Brewing Water. ......................................................................................................................... 182

Taste and Smell............................................................................................................... 182

Hardness.......................................................................................................................... 183

Glossary. .................................................................................................................................................. 185

Index......................................................................................................................................................... 199

Sc he lte n sc hre c kt m e hr an de m Ve rständig e n, De nn hunde rt Sc hläg e an de m

1.	Making a Simple Beer.	5
2.	Fermenting a Beer.	7
3.	Racking a Beer	8
4.	Bottling a Beer.	9
5.	Pounds of Malt VS. Approximate Alcohol Content.	11
6.	Total Hop Utilization VS. Boiling Time.	17
7.	Hop Flavor Utilization VS. Boiling Time.	21
8.	Hop Aroma Utilization VS. Boiling Time	29
9.	Hop Bittering Utilization VS. Boiling Time.	38
10.	Utilization Derating for SG.	39
11.	Ethyl Alcohol (Percent by Volume VS. Percent by Weight)	65
12.	Reading a Hydrometer.	163
13	Temperature VS. SG Correction.	164
14.	Installing a Bottling Spigot.	169
	Brewing Equations
E-1.	CFU Equation	25
E-2.	CAU Equation.	33
E-3.	IBU Equation.	43
E-4.	DOE Prediction Equation	59
E-5.	Gravity Prediction Equation	60
E-6.	Target IBU Equation.	67
E-7.	Required IBU Equation.	71
E-8.	Required Bittering Hop Weight Equation.	71
E-9.	Required Utilization Equation.	72
E-10a.	Speise Priming Equation.	78
E-10b.	DME Priming Equation.	79
E-10c.	Corn Sugar Priming Equation.	80
E-12.	IBU for Kits Equation.	165
E-13.	IBU for Hopped Malt Extracts	165
xii

This book is dedicated to my wife Judy and the guys: Gracie Underfoot and Maximilian Holdme whose presence, support, and patience made this technical reference manual possible.

CEI Publishing, a division of Crossfire Engineering Inc., has been publishing books since 1981. We can assistance you with the publication of your book or manuscript. For details, call or write:

Crossfire Engineering Inc.

Crossfire Software Corp.

5830 West Turkey Lane

Tucson, Arizona 85742

(860) 627 - 5544

http://crossfireEngineering.COM

Se i nic ht unte den Säufe rn und Sc hle m m e rn. De nn die Säufe r und Sc hle m m e r ve rarm e n, und e in Sc hläfe r m uß ze rrisse ne Kle ide r trag e n.

Brewing is a very satisfying avocation. It is a task of love from start to finish. The brewer sees beer from its first airlock bubble to their last burp. Brewing can be simple, like making instant soup. It can also be complex, limited only by your imagination. The choice is up to you. Chapter II, Brewing Your First All Natural Beer, is an example of simple brewing. The recipes in Chapter XV, Recipes, are examples of very complex World Class beers that are still very easy to brew.

All Natural: German brewers strive to brew All Natural beer. They follow the old principle of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid.) Brewing requires no chemicals, additives, enhancers, stabilizers, or other adjuncts. Alcohol and hops will preserve your beer. The aging will provide clarity, head, and smoothness. All Natural is brewing at World Class levels.

No Chemicals: It was serendipitous that I started brewing before developing an allergic reaction to commercial beer and wine. I soon observed my allergic reactions did not occur with my concoctions. It was easy to prove an additive, not the alcohol, was at fault. Concocting saved me from a dry existence. If allergic reactions force you to start brewing All Natural, the great taste will keep you brewing. Did you know some commercial beers have over a hundred different additives? For more information on chemicals and their effects read, This Crud's For You or, Chemicals and How to Use Them, by the Beer Engineer.

The Reinheitsgebot: Brewing requires four ingredients: Malt, Hops, Yeast, and Water. The revised (the original was in 1516) German Brewing Purity Order, The Reinheitsgebot demands: "Gebraut aus Malz, Hopfen, Hefe und Wasser." [Translation: "Brewed with malt, hops, yeast, and water."] They did not know what Hefe (yeast, or the bible's leaven) was back in 1516 but somehow they got it into their living bread. German beers need no other ingredient (American, English, Irish beers are a whole other story). If you wanted, you could grow all the ingredients organically in your own yard.

No Sugar: Beer requires no sugars, corn or cane. In 1776, the British were given their independence. We composed a new dictionary to pronounce our words the correct way. Why use any of their sugar beer ideas now? Do not waste your time brewing English sugar beers. Use malt to make your favorite English Beer. All Malt beers are just as easy to make. If you want to spend your time making cheap beer, that is OK. If you want to make a premium beer at reduced cost, homebrew is for you.

Over 75 percent of our customers brew using beer kits. They like the convenience of having the basics already done for them. Some will add a few ounces of crystal malt or an ounce or two of hops but they like the kit beers. There are over 100 different beer kits and many different types of malt extracts to choose from. The combinations of these two simple ingredients allow you to make over 100,000 different beers. There is a winning combination in there for everybody's taste.

With the many malts, hops, and specialty grains available any style beer can be brewed. While there is no substitute for a full grain mash, most brewers simply do not have the time. The Beer Engineer's Mini-Mash changes that forever. It could make a grain-head out of you. It reduces the time and energy required to use grains. The Beer Engineer's predefined hop schedules can be used to add your desired amount of bitterness, hop flavor and nose to all your beers.

Specialty grains, used in the recipes, require nothing but the quick and easy Mini-Mash (see Chapter VIII).

The Mini-Mash will never replace a full grain mash; it was not intended to control the total brewing process. A great Pilsner requires precise control of the entire mashing process. Full mash, all grain brewers will, however, find an excellent way of approximating some of their beers with Mini-Mashing. All brewers can benefit by Mini-Mashing. It will save them many hours brewing their everyday beer.

While there are many brewing books describing how to use hops for bittering, this manual goes far beyond that. The Beer Engineer shows how to control any hop by telling the German secrets of hopping.

This technical reference manual has many numbers and tables. If math is not your strong point, chill. Use the predefined schedules and recipes. The math is for brewers who like to predict the outcome of a beer numerically. You can use the Mini-Mash and Hop Schedules to add flavors and aromas to all your beers. Math calculations do not make a beer. Great beers are made with malts, water, hops, yeast, love, and time.

Over the last decade, I have taught many brewers my Mini-Mash and Hop Schedules. Their responses have been a great aid in writing this manual. I have found that each of them uses the Mini-Mash and Hop Schedules in their own special way.

Boiling hops and malts together is unnecessary (many beer kit manufacturers make extracts and add them to their kits instead of boiling with malt). I prefer the old fashioned way of boiling all my boiling hops in all the malt. My way causes some problems for people who do not have a big boiling pot (see my remedy in the Hints). The important thing is to add the bitterness, flavor, and aroma to all your beers. Water and malt (or just water) and heat will extract the wanted effects. Think of a hop schedule as adding a dash of salt to instant soup. The Mini-Mash is like brewing coffee: heat and strain.

There are many chemical additives on the market sold as replacements for grains, hops, and aging time. Commercial breweries use them with excellent results. Very expensive and sophisticated equipment enables the commercial brewers to use them effectively. So many homebrewing books recommend these adjuncts and additives to the homebrewer that the amount of ink used has convinced some brewers that it is true. I hope this manual will show an easy alternative to the use of all adjuncts and additives.

The 1960's, 1970's and part of the 1980's were very agreeable to miracle chemical solutions. Now the effects of the additives and artificial ingredients are just showing up. Many people have allergic reactions as I do. They get headaches from commercial beers but do not know the reason. Lately, some of my friends have been telling me that they are no longer able to drink commercial beers. Has a steady diet of homebrew de-toxed them? Possibly they've just been around a pig headed Dutchman like me too long. I still sell chemical additives to those who ask for them, but most of my customers are following my ways. They are brewing the All Natural way.

Both Judy's family and mine have been making beer and wine for many generations. We have never used any additives, except acid blend, yeast nutrients, and sugars in our wines. This is the reason I was easily able to identify the general cause of my allergic reactions.

The recipes in this manual show how to brew excellent beers with nothing but all natural ingredients. Look over the recipes. Design your own concoctions from scratch. You may never make a beer from the recipes but read them anyway. By reading them, you will see that each has something to show you. These recipes provide insight into the effect of malts, hops, and time on beer.

The body and malt flavor of a beer is dependent upon the amount of material left when fermentation is complete. Sugar, either Corn or Cane, will ferment leaving only alcohol, yeast, hulls, CO ₂ and some "Other Things." The amount of "Other Things" is so little, sugar is considered completely fermentable by the practical brewer. Malt, on the other hand, is not completely fermentable. Besides the alcohol, more yeast, and CO ₂, the malt leaves much of itself behind. The grain's malting and mashing process determine the amount of unfermentables in the malt. A beer's body is increased by adding more malt or specialty grains to the beer. Corn and other sugars will reduce the body.

The hop bitterness, flavor, and aroma come from the hops used. A beer made with nothing but malt extract would be lacking. A good hop and a specialty grain or two and you will have transformed the mediocre into a delight.

The head on a beer should last to the bottom of the glass. It should also provide an entertaining lace pattern on the side of the glass. This Super Head is easy to get. It comes naturally with age in an all malt beer. Head varies with the body of the beer. The addition of the body building specialty malts will build you a head naturally by increasing the unfermentable sugars. Unfermentables keep the gas bubbles from escaping in the head. This works like glycerin in the soap bubbles of a bubble pipe. Hops also add to the head retention, as does aging.

Soap is a head killer. Never wash your equipment, bottles, or beer glasses with soap or in the dishwasher. Use only the recommended cleaners and sterilizers from your homebrew shop.

If you want hop Alpha Acid Percent, ask your supplier. Your supplier is the only one who will have the correct Alpha Acid Percent for the hops they sell. Books and manuals can guide you to your perfect beer, not current hop parameters.

The recipes provided in this manual are yours. You can use them. You can even enter them into contests. Many of my friends have used them. They rate their beers as very praiseworthy. The rest of the information, tables, figures and wording of this manual are copyright protected and are for your use only.

Ein je de r spric ht vom vielen Trinke n, doc h nie m and spric ht vom g roße n Durst. TBE

The brewing of your first All Natural Beer is as simple as 1, 2, 3: Brew, Ferment, Bottle. With a minimum of equipment and four easily obtained ingredients, you can brew excellent all malt beer. After this chapter, the manual expands into the world of hopping and the Mini-Mash.

Select the Beer: although difficult, can be accomplished with some help from your brewing supplier.
I like to start people with one of two choices. For the amber beer lover, I suggest any 3.3 pound, all malt, ale kit and one 3.3 pound can or bag of hopped amber malt extract. For the timid lite beer lover, I suggest any 3.3 pound pilsner kit and one 3.3 pound wheat malt extract. Note: a hopped wheat malt extract or a wheat beer kit can be substituted for the wheat malt extract to produce a more bitter, European style pilsner. Have your supplier recommend a good yeast to use with your choice.

Sanitize: all your brewing equipment, including your can opener. Use only an approved brewing
cleaner & sterilizer. Follow the cleaner instructions. Although household bleach is a great sanitizer, it is not recommended because it is difficult to get its smell out of your equipment. Environmentally safe, easy to rinse, products are available at your brewing supplier.

Fig.1: Making a Beer

Remove any labels & yeast from the beer kit and malt
extract and discard. Before opening cans or bags, place them in a tub or sink of very hot (140-200°F) water for 15-20 minutes. This will soften the malt extracts.

Rehydrate the Yeast: Refer to the rehydration process
that is described in Chapter XII, Be Kind to Your Little Beasties.

Hint 1:Never use a plain, white, no-named pack of yeast that comes in some kits, always buy a fresh name brand yeast.

I. Mixing the wort. Dry both the beer kit and the malt
extract syrup containers with a clean towel. Pour about one gallon of hot water into your fermenter and then open and add the beer kit and the malt extract to the water in the fermenter. Stir well to mix the malt syrups and hot water before continuing.

fermenter. When malts are boiled, some form of forced cooling will become necessary prior to pouring the wort into the fermenter.

Always cover your cooling wort to avoid unnecessary airborne contamination. Dust and the winds carries mold spores and bacteria.

Hint 2: Use an indelible marker to mark 1/2 and whole gallon marks on the outside of your bucket. Cover the marks with clear tape. This will last for years and make your brewing and bottling so much easier.

II. Fill the fermenter rapidly (to promote aeration) up to the five (5) gallon mark with warm water (see Appendix J, Brewing Water). Target your final wort temperature range between 86°F and 95°F to avoid temperature shock to the yeast.

VII. Stir the wort vigorously to create foam in the beer. After the yeast is rehydrated, slowly add a little wort to the rehydrated yeast (see Chapter XII, Be Kind to Your Little Beasties). Continue adding wort until the yeast solution is about the same temperature as the wort. Now, pour the yeast mixture into the fermenter while gently stirring. Yeast rehydration and thermal shock reduction will increase yeast's viability several thousand fold. The wort will naturally cool to room temperature by itself. Your brewing work is now complete. Reward yourself with a beer. Soon you can have a homebrew.

III. If you keep a beer log, measure and record the corrected Specific Gravity (SG), date, total volume, and the time the yeast is added. This will help you later when you start concocting.

I. Insert the airlock into the cover. Place the cover on the fermenter. Move fermenter to the fermenting place. All beer kits come with Ale yeast and when using an Ale Yeast, the fermentation temperature range is between 68°F and 75°F. Some Ale yeasts will ferment as low as 63°F but fermentation is very slow below 68°F. The ideal temperature would be around 68°F. See Chapter XII, Be Kind to Your Little Beasties. Most experienced brewers will ferment their ales at about 68°F. This cooler fermentation reduces the strong yeast byproducts produced at the higher end of the range.

Hint 3: For lagering you must buy or culture a live liquid lager yeast. You cannot use the kit yeast. The ideal lagering temperature for a liquid lager yeast is 48°F to 55°F. If you use a Dry Lager Yeast fermentation should take place between 58°F and 65°F.

Hint 4: If you intend to lager, do not chill your beer to the lagering temperature until the beer has begun to foam up. Let the beer stay at room temperature until the foaming starts.

II Rotate the spigot nozzle so that it points up. Fill it with a sanitizer (one that needs no rinsing) or with inexpensive vodka. Cover the spigot with a plastic sandwich bag or plastic wrap and hold in place with a rubber band. This will keep spigot clean, dust free, and ready for transfer later. It will also catch any small drips caused by worn spigots.

II. With the bucket in its fermenting location, fill airlock 1/2 full of vodka (water for the more dauntless person) and, when using a cylindrical air lock, install the plastic float.

handled. The beer will ferment very violently for the first day or so and then slow down and get to the real

work. The violent fermentation is called the Primary Fermentation and will last for about two to four days.

Fig.2: Fermenting a beer

Note 2: All beers will benefit from being transferred (racked) into another sanitary (secondary) fermenter when the active primary fermentation subsides. Later, when grains are added to your brewing process, it will be necessary to transfer the beer in this manner to remove any grain components (see Fig. 3 in the Bottling Section). Some people use glass carboys, some, like me, use another plastic fermenter. After thirty five years of brewing, I prefer the plastic fermenting bucket with a spigot. Life is hard enough without lifting sixty pounds of glass and beer.

IV. Fermentation will generally continue for another seven (7) days at 75°F or ten (10) days at 68°F (68°F is ideal for all ales). If you are lagering, each yeast has its own time and temperature profile and you should consult with your brewing supplier for information specific to the liquid yeast you are using. See Chapter XII, Be Kind to Your Little

Hint 5: It is a good idea not to judge the process by the airlock bubbles. Train and use your taste to determine complete fermentation. This will take a little training but will pay off in the long run. Plastic buckets are seldom air tight and can fool all of us.

Hint 6: Always remove the plastic float before touching a plastic fermenter. A bent paper clip is an excellent tool for float removal.

Hint 7: When using grains in more advanced brewing sessions it will become necessary to transfer the beer into a clean fermentation vessel to remove and eliminate the effects of any Trub that settles with the end of the violent primary fermentation. For now it is just advisable to improve the beer's taste.

Hint 8: The old plastic triple (or tibble for those who imbibe) ripple, red top, airlocks are fine for one time use but they are almost impossible to sanitize properly. There is no easy way to get inside them and remove the blow-by from the previous fermentation process. If you like the tripple ripple, for the nostalgic reasons (they are very cute and make happy little sounds) fine. Use a new one every time. The "Cylindrical Airlocks" are easy to clean with an airlock brush.

I. Sanitize another fermenter (a.k.a. bottling bucket), spigot, bottle filler, paddle, and transfer hose.

Airlock deactivation. Remove airlock float from the fermenter and then the airlock and the cover.

IV. Racking (a.k.a. transferring the beer) Place full fermenter higher than the empty one. Remove plastic bag from spigot. Attach ends of tubing to both spigots. Open spigots and allow beer to flow. Try not to disturb sediment on bottom of fermenter. Some sediment, collected in spigot, is normal and will not affect your beer. Hint 9: Tilt bucket to get out all the beer. If you mess up, don't worry. Beer is tough and the aging will take care of any extra sediment.

Fig.3: Racking the Beer

Hint 10: Be sure the beer has completed its fermentation by tasting. If the beer tastes like good, flat beer, its fermentation is complete. If the beer tastes sweet, or you are just developing your taste buds, you must take a hydrometer reading and then replace the cover and reactivate the airlock. Let it ferment another couple of days and then repeat this section. If the hydrometer reading stays within 0.001 when corrected to 60°F the

Caution: Hydrometer reading samples should only be drawn off with a sanitized glass turkey baster.

Hint 11: Although hydrometer readings are sometimes used to check for complete fermentation, there are two drawbacks: First, every time the cover is removed some of the protective CO ₂ is lost from the top of the beer. Second, the chances of infection is increased every time a sample taken.

V. If you are keeping a beer log, Measure & Record the Final Corrected Specific Gravity, Total Volume, and Date for your beer.

Va. The novice, brewing at about sea level, should boil 7/8 of a cup of corn sugar in one cup of water.

If you live more than 500 feet above sea level or want to be all malt see Chapter XI, Making the Bubbles. Stir while boiling to dissolve and sterilize the sugar. Remove from the heat and cover with tin foil. Cooling may be quickened by placing the pan of sugar water in a cold water and ice bath.

Vb. Add the cooled priming liquid to the beer and stir, gently but thoroughly. Aeration is not wanted in

this stage. The addition of air will lengthen the aging time required for the beer. Here, you will have to develop your own technique. After adding the priming sugar to the beer you must bottle immediately.

Fig.4: Bottling the Beer

VIb. Detach the hose from empty bucket and attach the bottle filler to the hose. Place the full bucket above your bottling area and draw one or two bottles of beer through the bottle filler and pour it back into the bucket. This will purge the spigot, hose, and filler. Try not to mix in a lot of air.

VIc.Fill each bottle to the top using a bottle filler.
Withdrawal of the bottle filler leaves a perfect head space in the bottle.

VII. Carbonation. Move your beer to a warm (68°F to
75°F) place to carbonate (condition). After one week of conditioning, chill a test bottle. Open the test bottle and check

it for carbonation. If it is not carbonated, it needs more time. Let the bottles remain in a warm place for

The other difficult task (perhaps more difficult than selecting which style to brew) is aging your beer. There is real agony in this process. You know the beer you are aging is already better than anything you can buy, but you must wait for it to get even better. Theory says that 1 week of aging is recommended for each degree of final gravity. That is if your beer's final gravity is 1.016, sixteen weeks of aging is required. I find half that time is acceptable for new brewers. Some brewers, new to all malt beers, drink their first few batches of beer in a week. I do not have to tell you experienced brewers that aging does improve the beer. Patience has more than its own reward when brewing. One of the secrets to a "World Class" beer is age.

Drinking a natural, all malt beer is the reward for a job well done. All Malt beer costs a few bucks more per case than sugar beers (sometimes referred to as prohibition beers) but most people agree that it is worth the cost increase. Try your all malt beer at cellar temperature (50°F to 60°F). You may like it better than from the refrigerator. The all malt flavor is enhanced by the slightly warmer temperatures.

Hint 13: If your buckets do not have spigots installed, see Appendix D, Installing a Bottling Spigot.

What decides the alcohol content of the beers you make? This question has been on the minds of most brewers who come in for advice. Along with this question, there are some interesting Old Wives Tales that should also be cleared up while we are on the subject of alcohol.

Yeast is required to make alcohol. Each yeast strain has its own alcohol tolerance that limits the amount of alcohol it can produce before putting itself to sleep. The stronger (higher alcohol tolerance) the yeast is, the more sugars (hopefully malt based) it can convert to alcohol. False: Adding a strong yeast to your beer will increase its alcohol content. True: Adding a strong yeast to a beer that has enough malt sugars to produce more alcohol than a weaker yeast can tolerate will increase the strength of the beer.

Malt sugars are available in many forms: Malt Extract Syrup (MES), Dry Malt Extract (DME), Malted Grains (after mashing). You can approximate the amount of potential alcohol your beer will have using Figure 5 on the next page. Many people try to make a beer strong with the addition of cheap sugars like cane sugar, corn sugar, and beet sugar. These will give you cheap alcohol but, do you really want to spend hours of your time making cheap beer? German beers should always derive their alcohol from malt sugars alone. Some brewers use corn sugar to prime their German beers. I guess, since no one can taste the difference, they call it authentic German beer. It is not! They should call it German Type beer, not German beer.

To use Figure 5, determine the number of pounds of malt per gallon you have placed into the wort. Go to the left vertical axis of the graph and locate the number corresponding to the pounds per gallon. Draw an

imaginary line to the corresponding number on the right vertical axis. Now, where this imaginary crosses line intersects the appropriate curve (first from the left is for Mashed Malted Grain, middle line is for Malt Extract Syrup, and lastly the line on the right is for Dry Malt Extract) draw a vertical line to the horizontal axis to decide the approximate alcohol content. The top is for Percent by Weight (U.S. Beer Units) and the bottom is for Percent by Volume (German Beer Units).

Example: If you make a beer with 6.6 pounds of MES and 5 gallons of water you will have used:

Drawing a line from 1.3 on the left vertical axis till it intersects the MES line and looking up to the upper horizontal axis it can be decided that the beer will be approximately 3.7% alcohol. This is a premium strength beer.

Hint 12: Bottling is the most difficult and time-consuming element in the home production of beers. Ask

your Brewing Supplier about the KegMan. The KegMan allows you to use easily obtained

The Beer Engineer has several simple brewing techniques to improve the simple kit beer in the previous chapter. My personal preference is for a rich, malty brew with a good hop flavor and nose. Whoops, I meant to say aroma. The beer of your longing may be different. It does not matter. This Technical Reference Manual will teach you to brew any beer style. Improving a kit beer is easy. So easy, I still think of it as brewing Instant Beer.

General improvement. Any beer will be improved by the technique of racking the beer after the first stage of fermentation is completed. This racking is not intended to clarify the beer, it is to insure that any remaining grain is removed from the beer before fermentation proceeds.

Adding Malt flavor & aroma. To add a beautiful malt flavor and aroma to beer I use the Mini-Mash. One-half of a pound of fresh crushed Specialty Malts such as Crystal Malt or Chocolate Malt will give a kit beer a real World Class malt flavor (see Chapter VIII, The Mini-Mash). These grains provide the malt aroma, flavor, color, and body I like. If I want more color, I just add some Chocolate or Black Malt.

Hint 14: All Specialty Malts should be fresh ground. It is very much like coffee. No true coffee lover

would ever use preground beans. The same is true of grain. The first time you grind the grain, smell the

Mini-Mashing is fun. It has no complicated rules. Use the Mini-Mash to add malt aroma, malt flavor, and more body to any beer. Just perform the Mini-Mash shown in Chapter VIII and pour the liquid from the Mini-Mash into your fermenter. This liquid will replace the hot water called for in Chapter II.

Adding Hop flavor and aroma. The bitterness of kit beers, made with hopped malt extract, is adequate. Increased bittering is usually not necessary. Hop flavor and aroma comes from the breakdown of the hop by boiling, like the herbs added to a soup. Boiling a hop with any liquid will release the hop properties. You can boil the hop in water, a can of plain malt in water, the Mini-Mash liquid, or a can of malt in the Mini-Mash liquid.

Hint 15: Never boil the beer kit that is bittered with hop extracts. Boiling a complex hop extract bittered kit may spoil the kit. If a kit manufacturer has designed hop flavor and aroma into the kit, these hop parameters may be lost by extended boiling.

The next four chapters cover the bitterness, flavor, and aroma extractions from the hop. For now, we will limit our discussion to the improvement of kit beers. For the kit beer, I have developed the 8 by 15 Kit Schedule. It will work with any hop or combination of hops. It is independent of the quantity of hops used. This schedule will work in any liquid. What could be simpler?

I prefer to use the hops of Germany and Eastern Europe. Examples of these hops are: Northern Brewer, Hersbrucker, Spalt, Hallertau, Polnischer Lubin, Tettnanger, Saaz, and Styrian Goldings. There are many other great hops available. I will not presume to tell you which is your favorite. Sniff the hops at your brewing supply shop. Each hop variety has a different aroma. Use fresh hop pellets for this 8 by 15 Kit Schedule. Whole flower (AKA leaf) and plug hops may be slightly more aromatic but they are not suited for this schedule. Pellets are easier to use because they divide into portions easily and will settle in the bottom of fermenter with the yeast. The hop pellets do not have to be strained from the liquid.

How much hops is too much hops? Sometimes, I use half an ounce of a hop. Other times, I use sixteen ounces of hops. It is your concoction, you decide. I recommend that you start with 1 ounce of a single hop. This will give you an impressive example of the schedule results and the hop's flavor and aroma.

1. Bring the water or malt and water liquid to a rapid boil and maintain during the schedule.

2. Divide the hops (pellets are the most practical in this application) into eight cups or dishes. Accuracy is not important in the division.

13. Remove from heat and pour the Malt Extract Can into the hot liquid if it was not used in the boil. This will cool the mixture. Stir for a minute.

14. Pour into the fermenter and add the Beer Kit where indicated in Chapter II. The beer kit in conjunction with the water will cool the wort quickly and no other technique is necessary to insure rapid cooling.

The 8 by 15 Kit Schedule will give new life to all kit beers. The use of hop blends (see next page) will increase the complexity of your beers.

To achieve complexity in a beer, it is vital to have as many complimenting flavors and aromas as possible. Because of my adherence to the KISS principle, I developed the German Blend and the English Blend. Each adds a complex array of aromas and flavors to any beer. This is the start of a World Class Beer.

The German Blend is a formulation of several different varieties of German and East European hop pellets. To make your own blend, mix one part of German Hallertau, one part of German Hersbrucker, one part of Czechoslovakian Saaz, one part of German Tettnanger, one part of German Northern Brewer, and one part of Slovenian Styrian Goldings. Mix them all together and shake them all about. Now you have a German Blend. In my opinion the imported variety are always the best. Use the North American varieties of these hops when they are the only ones available. They will also make a dandy blend.

The English Blend is a formulation of several different varieties of English and Canadian hop pellets. Make your own blend by mixing one part of East Kent Goldings, one part of English Fuggles, one part of Brewers Gold, one part Willamette, and one part of Slovenian Styrian Goldings. Mix them all together and call it English Blend. Again I think the imported variety are always the best but do not let the North American varieties of these hops deter you from blending. Substitute Willamette and/or U.S. Fuggles for UK Fuggles or Canadian B.C. Goldings for UK East Kent Goldings. It really does not matter. Whatever blend you come up with will be great. Complexity in hops is the goal of blends.

That question has no answer. This manual will give you many techniques to control every aspect of your beer. You may never want to go past this point. If you do, you will be stepping into World Class brewing. The manual will show you how to predict and control the Hop bitterness, hop flavor, hop nose, malt aroma, body, head, carbonation, and color or your beer. You decide how deep you want to delve into the world of the concoctor.

The hop is a wonderful medicinal herb. It transforms a malt beverage into a beer. Hops temper the malt's sweetness and provide the natural preservatives for beer. Hops add character to a beer. They provide the bitterness, aroma and flavor recognized in all World Class Beers.

The first mention of hops in beer was in the year 1079. Tradition and superstition would plague the acceptance of hopped beers for the next seven centuries. Hopped beer would not be universally accepted until the middle of the seventeenth century. That is when the world recognized the great taste of German beer.

Hops are herbs, just like basil, celery, and oregano. You can add them to beer just like you add herbs to a soup. Only the hop flowers are used in the brewing process. The hops come in five basic forms: Whole Flowers (sometimes erroneously called leaf hops), Pelletized Flowers, Compressed Whole Flowers (a.k.a. Plugs), Hop Oils, and Hop Extracts. Each of these forms has it advantages.

When a hop is boiled, it adds complexity, individuality, and character to the beer. Like any other herb, the boiling time determines the amplitude and characteristics imparted. Figure 6 shows the three distinct regions of the Hop Boiling Cycle. The regions are Aroma, Flavor, and Bitterness. Aroma and Flavor have their own boiling region while bitterness is added for all boiling times.

There are three general observations that can be made from Figure 6 concerning hop boiling:

1. A hop boiled for over 45 minutes will impart only bitterness to the beer. For all practical purposes, the hop aroma and flavor will be dissipated in the steam.

2. A hop boiled between 3 and 11 minutes will provide aroma without a significant amount of flavor and bitterness.

3. A hop boiled between 13 and 30 minutes will provide flavor to the beer with the bitterness contribution less than half the maximum potential.

Note: This is why boiling of a beer kit will change everything the manufacturer has designed into the kit.

Since the aroma and flavor hops are no longer present in the kits, the aroma and flavor will be boiled off and the Iso-hop extracts can potentially be changed into a less bitter compounds.

What does this mean to you? It suggests that hops should be added in a hopping schedule. This schedule

will determine at which times the hops are added to the boil and thus control the derived hop parameters.

Let's examine a very basic three-infusion hop schedule and see what effect the infusions have on the beer. Infusion 1: A hop boiled for seventy-five (75) minutes. The results are: Zero percent of the Aroma, Zero percent of the Flavor, and Ninety-Seven percent of the Bitterness.

Infusion 2. A hop boiled for twenty (20) minutes yields: Zero percent of the Aroma, One-hundred percent of the Flavor, and twenty-five percent of the Bitterness.

Infusion 3. A hop boiled for seven (7) minutes yields: One-hundred percent of the Aroma, Seven percent of the Flavor, and Fourteen percent of the Bitterness.

This simple schedule example shows how dividing the hop into three parts, adding one part at the beginning (75 Minutes), the middle (20 Minutes), and last (7 Minutes) of the boil has produced bittering, flavor, and aroma from the single boil.

The boiling time is critical to the hop flavor and aroma. Over boiling will shift hop aroma into flavor and/or bitterness and hop flavor into bitterness. A common brewing mistake, effecting hop flavor and aroma, is a slow wort cooling rate. The hop liquid temperature must be lowered quickly. A slow cooling rate increases the effective boiling time and will alter the hop flavor and aroma you planned to achieve. Slow cooling rates are key factors in the reasons why homebrewers should not exceed the ninety minute boil times.

An excellent wort chiller can be made with very little effort. The fastest wort chillers are the counterflow type. These consist of an inner beer line made of stainless steel (preferred) or copper tubing surrounded by a water jacket. All wort chillers should be maintained in a clean state with the use of Beer Line Cleaner (BLC) that is available from most fully equipped brewing shops.

To make the simplest of all counterflow wort chillers you will need a fifty-foot garden hose (3/4 inch ID), a twenty five-foot length of stainless steel or copper tubing (% inch ID), a tube of silicone rubber bathtub caulking compound, plastic electrical tape, and a bucket. To make the chiller follow the simple instructions below:

1. Drill two holes in the garden hose about twenty feet apart and approximately centered in the garden hose.

2. Insert the tubing (beer line) into one of the holes of the garden hose and out the other hole so that about twenty-feet of the tubing is inside the garden hose.

3. Seal the entrance and exit areas of the beer line into and out of the garden hose with the silicone rubber compound. Use more than you thing is necessary. Allow the rubber to wrap around the hose and travel up the external surfaces of the beer line.

4. Allow the silicone rubber compound to cure overnight and then apply a second layer over the first to build up thickness and strength around the entrance and exit holes of the beer line.

5. Allow the silicone rubber compound to cure overnight and then cover the areas with the plastic electricians tape to give strength to the joints and make them look "slightly professional."

6. Neatly coil the hose and beer line and garden hose with a diameter that will easily fit into the bucket.

7. Drill one hole in the bottom side of the bucket to allow one of the beer lines to fit through it.

8. Insert the beer line, on the exit end of the garden hose, through the bucket hole and place the coiled beer

9 Seal the beer line exit hole in the side of the bucket with the silicone rubber compound and let it cure overnight.

Your wort chiller is now ready. To use it hook the garden hose up to a supply of cold water and the and connect the beer line that exits the side of the bucket to a syphon hose that is in your hot wort. Start the water flow at the highest flow rate possible and draw a syphon through the beer line. After the beer starts to come through the beer line and flow into the fermenter, you can cut back the water flow to obtain the desired cooling with the minimum wasted water.

This simple counterflow wort chiller is several times more efficient than the emersion type. It will also cost you less to make than its less efficient cousin. Prosit!

What hops should you use in your beer? The hops you choose are up to you. If you like a particular hop, use it in your beer. If you are brewing True to Style you must use an appropriate hop. Table I, General Hop Usage Information, gives you some indication which hop to use in which style of beer. Remember, it is your concoction. You do it your way.

Many books have been written on beer making. You have probably read some of them. The better books will explain the rudimentary basics of bittering. The information in this manual is unique. More Concoctions from the Beer Engineer will show you the long-hidden German secrets of hop bittering, flavoring and aroma. This manual will go forward from those old reference books and teach you how to design your own hopping schedules. The methodology will allow you to make any hop perform to your specifications.

I. The hop boiling time will control the characteristics the hop imparts in the beer. This is why all hops should be added in schedules.

There are many variables affecting hop flavor. If you could control these variables, you could tame the capricious hop. Because the homebrewer is unable to control most of these variables, this chapter will explain how to deal with this lack of control and achieve excellent flavor extractions. If you cannot control the hop's condition, control how you use it.

The following are just a few examples of hop variables. Hops are affected by age, forming, sizing, maturity at harvest, harvesting methods, dehydrating techniques, storage conditions, sanitation of workers, etc. All hop variables change the flavor characteristics of the hop and the homebrewer cannot control these variables. They can only buy their hops from a reputable supplier. A good supplier will maintain ambient conditions to limit hop damage. The homebrewer can only keep the hop as fresh as when purchased.

scientific instruments. Flavor is too complex to isolate in the laboratory. The beer industry employs many tasters. These Tasters are trained to serve as Quality Control personnel. Consistent flavor is the tasters' goal.

As seen in Figures 6 and 7, flavor varies with boiling time. Over boiling will dissipate the flavor. You must be careful at the end of boiling to cool down the wort as quickly as possible.

I developed the Flavor Utilization Plot, Figure 7, to predict the amount of flavor a hop can provide. Table V, Hop Utilization, presents the same information in an easy to read table form. Table V should be used for all calculations while the graphs are very useful for planning a beer.

Flavor Utilization is independent of the hop variety but each hop variety will give a different amount of flavor. The flavor does not depend on the hop's Alpha or Beta Acid Percent. You must determine the flavors you like on your own. There are a few helpful guidelines to follow. Use German hops in German bier. Use English hops in English beers. Use Australian hops in Australian beers. Use American hops . . ., and the rule goes on.

The addition of all the hops at one precise time may not give the same flavor for two reasons. First, the cooling time and rate are not completely controllable. Second, harvesting and handling variations within each hop lot will change the flavor. The effects of both variables are easy to reduce by averaging. Boiling a fraction of the hop weight, at several times close to the desired utilization time, works very well. I use a hopping schedule that requires hop additions at several predetermined times within the Flavor Region. Each infusion of a hop in this region also has its own "mini" schedule.

I have defined five standard scheduled times for hop flavor addition. These times are thirty (30), twenty five (25), twenty (20), fifteen (15), and ten (10) minutes of boil time. Look over the recipes. You will see I use one or more infusions. Each addition is mini-scheduled. This schedule is the same for all infusions: 1/2 of the hop at the desired time, 1/2 more two minutes later, the remaining 1/2 two minutes later. Using a schedule of three hop additions, at two (2) minute intervals, compensates for the variations in cooling time and the hop itself. For example, To use one ounce of a hop at twenty five minutes, I would use the following schedule. Add 1/2 of the ounce at twenty five minutes. Add another 1/2 of the ounce at twenty three minutes. Add the last 1/2 of the ounce at twenty one minutes. In effect, this stretches out the hops' boiling time and minimizes the errors. My mini-schedule of three 1/2 hop weight infusions is not the only schedule possible. A friend uses one-fifth of the hop every minute. I think that is overkill. Oh well, it's his concoction.

A weight scale is not required to divide the hops. Exact weights are not important. Eyeball measurements are adequate. Remember beer responds to love, not math. I just divide the hops into small custard cups. When I get distracted, the custard cups help me to determine where I am in the schedule. Custard cups are excellent but any other easy-to-handle containers are just as effective.

Computation of Flavor Utilization (FU) of each hop addition is easy. They are available in the summary for the predefined schedules. The following examples show how to compute the flavor utilization that you can apply to your own custom schedule. FU for a schedule is just the average of the FUs for each infusion and are given in Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules.

Flavor Schedule 30: Add a 1/2 of the hop at 30 minutes. Add another 1/2 at 28 minutes. Add the last 1/2 at 26 minutes. From Table V, Hop Utilization, we get the FU for these three times, 30, 28 and 26 minutes, as 0.16, 0.24, and 0.32 respectively. Add the three FUs together. Divide the sum by three. The result is the average FU for The Flavor Schedule for 30 minutes.

Flavor Schedule 25: Add ½ of the hop at 25 minutes. Add ½ at 23 minutes. The last ½ is added at 21 minutes. Again use Table V to get the FU for these three times, 25, 23 and 21 minutes, as 0.35, 0.39, and 0.4 respectively. Add the three FUs together. Divide the sum by three. The result is the average FU for The Flavor Schedule for 25 minutes.

The remaining flavor schedules are computed in the same way. The text has been eliminated to keep the redundancy to a minimum.

Although the 10 minute region is a high aroma area, I have found that the cooling rate of the wort is critical

to take full advantage of this region for hop aroma. Therefore, I call this region a flavor region.

Add 1/2 of the hop at 15 minutes, 1/2 of the hop at 13 minutes, 1/2 of the hop at 11 minutes, 1/2 of the hop at 9 minutes, 1/2 of the hop at 7 minutes, 1/2 of the hop at 5 minutes, 1/2 of the hop at 3 minutes, and finally the last 1/2 of the hop at 1 minute. Table V provides the FU for these eight times as 0.3, 0.2, 0.13, 0.07, 0.04, 0.03, 0.03, and 0.03 respectively. Add the eight FUs together. Divide the sum by eight. The result is the average FU for The 8 x 15 Kit Schedule.

The highest flavor is achieved at 25, 20, 15, and 10 minutes but the effect of the 8 by 15 Schedule is impressive. The 30 minute infusions should be avoided, if possible. The cooling times will usually push it into the no flavor region and the Bitterness Utilization Curve becomes steep after twenty-five minutes. A steep curve makes the stable control of bitterness more difficult. Bitterness is discussed later in this chapter.

The calculation of CFU does not change with the hop used. Remember, every hop has the same Flavor Utilization. Hop substitution formulas do not work with Flavoring hops. One ounce of Hallertau hops will not produce the same flavor as one ounce of Pride of Ringwood. Be careful when substituting Flavoring hops. Hops of different variety or processing will change the flavor perceived.

Calculate CFU by using the simple equation CFU Equation (E-1) below. This equation has three variables.

Weight is the weight of the hop in Ounces. The Volume is the total expected volume of the beer including any priming liquid, or other hop infusion liquids added in the brewing process and is in U.S. Gallons. The FU is the Flavor Utilization from Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules or Table V, Hop Utilization. The five and one-half (5.5) is a correction factor.

Example: To show how to compute the CFU, we will use the following simple example. The original volume is 5.5 gallons. The priming liquid is 1 pint (0.125 Gal.). The Flavor infusions will be at the 25, 20 and 15 minutes. The Weight (Wt) of each infusion will be .25 ounces. Using the equation above to compute the CFU, we must first compute the Total Volume or

Next compute the Flavor Calculation at 25 minutes using Equation (E-1). The Flavor Utilization (FU=0.38) is taken from Table VII @ Flavor 25.

Now the Total Combined Flavor Units (CFU) for the beer are equal to the total of the individual CFUs

What does the 0.237 CFU really mean? I have arranged, by experimentation, the flavor intensities of beers by CFU in Table II, Hop Flavor Magnitude VS. CFU Range. This is a relative chart, based on my preferences, but is very useful when deciding on a magnitude for CFU.

I. The Flavor Utilizations of all Standard Hop Schedules are given in Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules.

II. Add the Flavoring Hops in multiple stages. Spread the infusions over the entire flavor boil. Use many stages. The more infusions there are, the more predictable and stable the hop flavor outcome will be.

III. Cool the wort rapidly after boiling is complete. Try to maintain the same cooling rate for every beer you make so that your results, while not the same as someone else, will be consistent. A counter-flow wort chiller should be considered for maximum hop flavor control.

IV. Hop flavor is subject to natural environmental effects and production techniques. Hop flavor will vary with each harvest and process lot.

V. Don't substitute different hop varieties and expect consistent flavor. Each hop variety is provides different characteristics. Blending hops will aid in establishing consistent profiles.

VI. When boiling a hop with the wort, I use hop pellets. They are easy to handle and can easily be added at the scheduled times. Do not bother straining them out. The hop pellets will collect with the sediment at the end of fermentation.

VII. Never boil a beer kit. Boiling will alter the flavor profile designed by the master brewer who formulated the kit.

VIII. Hops are a natural product that will be placed in something to be consumed. There is always a risk of contamination from a variety of sources, human and otherwise. While most people agree that these contaminants will not harm the beer, some of the new bacteria seen on the news can kill you. Blanching them prior to use in your beer would be similar to washing vegetables before eating them. See Dry Hopping in the next chapter.

IX. Since hops are harvested once a year, no brewer (home or commercial) can get them any fresher than the present year's harvest. Trust your local shop to sell the freshest hops. If you cannot trust your shop, go to another shop.

ST Editor's note: Data will soon be available on the percent of the flavor oils in hops. This will certainly be

included in future additions of this technical reference manual and the Master Brewer Program.

Taste That Wonderful Hop Flavor 23

Hop nose: an official term for the hop's beautiful odoriferous emanation from a beer . . . I just call it aroma in this manual. It is sometimes better to be descriptive than official. Brewing is for beer lovers not pontificators.

The aroma of a hop is released by bruising, boiling, or age. For the purposes of brewing only boiling will be covered. Figure 8, Hop Aroma Utilization VS. Boiling Time, shows the range of boil time for hop aroma. Some think the addition of hop aroma to a beer is an uncontrollable process. This is because little technical information on aroma hopping has been made available to the homebrewer. I hope this manual will correct that common misconception with its simple method to introduce hop aroma into a beer.

The variables affecting hop flavor also affect the aroma. As said in the Hop Flavor chapter, a homebrewer cannot control these variables. A homebrewer can only buy from a trustworthy brewing supplier.

The volatile oils in the hop's flower contain its aroma. Chemists can measure the presence of these oils. If you ever desire to calibrate your nose, you could have it done. But why bother, have a beer and enjoy life. Because these oils are released by bruising, I think aroma hops must never be frozen (freezing might thermally bruise the hop and prematurely release its aroma). Vacuum sealing may also damage the aroma hops but from an engineering standpoint a little damage is always preferred to total destruction.

The hop aroma should be correct for the style of beer you are brewing. Although there are no rules, there is a simple guideline that can help. An English hop such as Fuggles, Kent Goldings, Willamette(USA), and Northern Brewer are great hops for an English ale or bitter. Likewise, the German and East European hops, Hallertau, Hersbrucker, Tettnanger, Northern Brewer, Saaz, Spalt, and Styrian Goldings should be selected for German and European beers. Use German and East European hops in German style beers and English hops in English style beers. There are even Australian and New Zealand Hops available for the Down Under brewers.

Hop Aroma is a function of boiling time. See Figures 6 & 8. Prolonged boiling will dissipate the volatile aroma oils and cause the beer to lose its nose (another slip, aroma) with more flavor and bitterness. Radical over-boiling will send both aroma and flavor into pure bitterness. Three scheduled aroma infusions impart a wonderful hop aroma to any beer. While any of these infusions will provide adequate aroma, all three will give your nose a real kick.

The first addition of the aroma hop is at the end of the boil for extract and whole grain brewers or the mixing of the ingredients for kit brewers. and is called the 1 Aroma Schedule. The hop may be added to the

liquid from a mash, a Mini-Mash, water and malt extracts, or just plain water. The choice is up to the individual concoctor.

The hops of the 1 Aroma Schedule are allowed to remain with the beer during fermentation. Pellets can

be poured into the beer; they will settle with the yeast and trub. Whole flowers (a.k.a. Leaf) can be placed in a hop boiling bag before addition to the beer.

Because primary fermentation is very active, the exiting CO ₂ gasses will force out most of the aroma oils. This is corrected for by a second aroma hop addition that is performed after primary fermentation. It is called the 2 Aroma Schedule. Usually, primary fermentation requires one to four days from yeast inoculation. The

2 Aroma Schedule requires the hop to be boiled in about one cup of boiling water. Cool immediately with

a cup or two of very cold water. This is the most potent infusion and replaces the aroma lost by primary
fermentation out-gassing. In the 2 Aroma Schedule the hop is allowed to remain in the beer during

secondary fermentation. Sterile hop pellets can be poured into the beer; they will settle with the yeast and trub. Hop flowers must be placed in a hop boiling bag and then sterilized before addition to the beer.

The third infusion is performed at bottling time and is called the 3 Aroma Schedule. Add the hops in the

standard aroma schedule below to about a cup of boiling water. Cool quickly with a cup or two of very cold
water. Strain thoroughly through sanitized strainers prior to adding to the finished beer. Hop flowers are best
used here. The 3 Aroma hop flowers can be coarse-strained to remove the bulk of them. The final straining

is accomplished with a tea strainer. The tea strainer is a very fine mesh screen available at most gourmet shops. This schedule will introduce some air into the beer at the wrong time but will add the "hard kick in the nose" some beers cry out for. Aging can fix up the air problem anyway.

1 Aroma, 2 Aroma, and 3 hop aroma schedules all have the same aroma infusion patterns. The Aroma

Schedule is simple. Add the aroma hop in thirds. Get the liquid to the boil and then set the timer for five minutes. Add 1/2 of the hops. At three minute on the timer add the second 1/2 of the hops. With one minute left on the timer, add the last 1/2 of the hops.

Hint 16: If you are using whole hop flowers it is difficult to add them in thirds without using three bags.

In order to circumvent this problem, place the hops into a boiling bag and give it a three minute sterilization boil (blanch). Getting three infusion times with whole hops is tries the patience. Tie the bag in a slip knot. Then you can use the inexpensive muslin bags over again.

The Aroma Utilization (AU) is read from Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules or Table V, Hop Utilization. The overall picture from Figure 8, Aroma Utilization VS. Boiling Time is more useful in the planning stages.

From Table V the AUs for the three infusions are 0.18, 0.1, and 0.03 respectively. Rapid cooling is very important to all Aroma Schedules.

Let's look at one of my favorite schedules, the 8 by 15 Kit Schedule. Analyzed for aroma it will yield: The one eight portion at 15 minutes will have an aroma utilization of 0.0, at 13 minutes the AU is 0.04, at 11 minutes the AU is 0.11, at 9 minutes the AU 0.19, at 7 minutes the AU 0.2, at 5 minutes the AU 0.18, at 3 minutes the AU 0.1, and finally at 1 minute it AU is 0.03. The average Aroma Utilization for The 8 by 15 Kit Schedule is:

This Aroma Utilization number can also be found in Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules.

CAU is the abbreviation for Combined Aroma Units. Just as with flavor, you can calculate the Total Aroma infused into a beer by adding the CAUs to get the Total Combined Aroma Unit. CAU is independent of the hop variety used. The CAU formula:

The Weight is the weight of the hop used in U.S. Ounces. Use 1.0 for the Weight if one ounce of hops is used. Likewise, 1.75 is substituted for Weight if one and three quarters ounces of hops is used. The Volume is the Total Volume of beer in U.S. Gallons at the finish of the brewing cycle. Use 5.0 if you are brewing five gallons, Use 6.0 if you are brewing 6 gallons, and so forth. The AU is the Aroma Utilization for the aroma schedule or from Table V, Hop Utilization. If you just dump all of hops in at one time, use Table V.

Hint 17: See Appendix B, Conversion factors when you are using a measuring systems that is different.
The KFactor is a correction constant. Each aroma infusion is a function of when the infusion was
performed: 1 Aroma, 2 Aroma, and 3 Aroma. The KFactor compensates for this in Table III, Hop

Example: Lets use a simple ale for an example. The Aroma infusions are at the boiling, secondary, and at
bottling. The 1 Aroma Schedule uses 1/4 oz, the 2 Aroma Schedule uses 1/4 oz, and the 3 Aroma Schedule

uses 1/4 oz. The final Total Volume will be 5.5 Gallons. The CAU for the 1 Aroma Schedule is computed

using equation E-2. The AU from Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules, is 0.103. The KFactor from Table III is 6 for the 1 Aroma Schedule.

The Combined Aroma Units for this example is equal to the sum of all the CAUs in the beer:

myself but with a safety twist. Hops are a natural product that contains mold cells, wild yeasts, field contamination, and worker contamination. Blanch your hops. The simple process, consisting of a two to three minute boiling water bath followed with a cold water cool, will add a great deal to your peace of mind without adding significant bitterness. Keep your beer healthy, do not take chances with adding unsanitary hops. It is better to be sanitary than sorry. Learn to love your beer.

MP Editor's Note: Because of the confirmed presence of potentially deadly bacteria (from human waste) found in raw food products, it would be unwise to assume that hops were free of this potential hazard. No data are available in the State of Connecticut on hop bio-hazards. Because Connecticut is a large Tobacco Growing State, the same health problems associated with tobacco can be logically attributed to the hop industry.

How does CAU relate to the hop aroma of your beer? Table IV, Hop Aroma Magnitude VS. CAU Range, provides a description of the CAU's magnitude. This is a relative chart but it is very useful for changing magnitudes. Remember that a lot of American beers have "extremely low" CAU values.

I. Add Aroma hops in stages. Use as many stages as you have the patience for. I use three infusions.

II. Cool the wort immediately at the end of the boiling schedule. A counter flow wort chiller is required for the initial boil. Very cold, sterile water is used to cool the 2 and 3 Aroma waters. Sterile cold

water is made by filling 1/2 pint plastic containers with boiling water and sealing with a plastic lid. Place in freezer to cool. Never use ice cubes from the ice tray.

III. I do not think you should freeze an aroma hop. There are many different opinions from the editors on this subject, so you must be the judge.

IV. For quantities of liquid of three or more gallons, a wort chiller should be considered. Be sure to clean the wort chiller before using. For the high efficiency, counter-flow models, I suggest you clean with Beer Line Cleaner (BLC). BLC is available from the KegMan. Have your supplier get in touch with him by calling (860) 623-6537 to get info.

V. An alternative to a wort chiller is to fill a large sink with cold water and immerse the brew kettle in the cold water. Constantly stir the wort and the cooling water. Ice in the tub (not the wort) will speed this process up. Keep covered with tin foil or lid during cooling. The lid will slow down the cooling rate but will keep the wort safe.

VI. For the small volumes of the second and third aroma Infusions, put the boiling hop pot into a tub of water and ice to cool. Keep covered with tin foil or lid for the same reason as above.

VII. Including the Aroma hops in the total bitterness calculations is often omitted because of its negligible effect on the total bitterness. I will use this calculation in the bitterness section of the following chapter to demonstrate how to perform the calculation. See bitterness section.

VIII The violent action and CO ₂ expulsion of the Primary fermentation stage dissipates aroma. You should replace the aroma during the less violent (Secondary Fermentation) and again at bottling.

IX. Whole hop flowers yield the most aroma oils. This form of hop is not always available or practical. Hop pellets are the easiest to use and are the most available. Freshness is far more important than form when your hopping involves boiling.

X. Remember, hops are harvested once a year. Do not try to get hops that are fresher than those of the current harvest. Your supplier may look at you very strangely.

XI. When dry hopping, blanch your hops in boiling water for peace of mind and safety also. ST Editor's Note: While it is the safest way, much research has been done in this area. It has been determined that the combination of low pH, alcohol content, yeast activity, and the preservative quality of hops will lessen the safety concerns. True Dry Hopping adds a hop aroma that is unique — it is different from what you get from any heat-processed hops. True dry hopping requires whole hop flowers because the whole hops are not heat processed like the pellets during their extrusion process.

I know, the heat will change the characteristics of the whole hop but it is better to be alive to enjoy the beer. My opinion is still for using the blanch. My life is far more important to me than a unique aroma. But you do it your way. Your concoction should be the way you like it. I can only report the possibilities and concerns I have about safety.

XII. Hop aroma is not all math. Try a few brews with the 8 by 15 Kit Schedule in the malt and see what a little hop can do for your regular beer.

Homebrewers are familiar with the bittering systems of Alpha Acid Units (AAU) and Homebrew Bittering Units (HBU). These systems are very useful to the novice who wishes to change from an unavailable hop to one that is available. Despite their usefulness, they lack the parameters required to hop True to Style.

The International Bittering Unit (IBU) is a worldwide standard for defining a beer's bitterness. The American Society of Brewing Chemists (ASBC) and the European Brewing Congress (EBC) use the IBU system to index a beer's bitterness. Although an accurate computation of IBU is possible, it is not necessary for the homebrewer. This Chapter provides the information required to compute and use IBU for planning and modifying a beer's bitterness.

The IBU system incorporates total volume, hop weight, boiling time (utilization), alpha acid percent, hop form or type, and the specific gravity of the boiling medium. If you are a homebrewer who does not vary the hop form, or significantly modify the boiling SG (within +0.020), you need not include the hop form (whole flower or pelletized) and the SG Derating Factor (SGDF) (on next page) into your calculations. All other "wild and crazy" concoctors should use these two correction factors. IBU can be measured in a laboratory when confirmation is required.

Utilization (Bittering Utilization or BU) is a term that represents the approximate amount of a hop's alpha acid bittering resin that will remain in a beer. About 60 percent of the resin can be absorbed into a wort during boiling. Fermenting, settling, racking, and aging will reduce this amount by half. Utilization is an important factor missing from the HBU and AAU Bittering systems. The IBU system corrects this deficit.

The hop form influences the utilization of the hop. Figure 9, Hop Utilization VS. Boil Time, shows this influence. Figure 9 is based on experimental data. It represents the amount of bitterness retained throughout the life of a beer. It depends on boiling time. Table V, Hop Utilization, provides the same utilization data shown in Figure 9 in decimal table format. Utilization is usually expressed in decimal format. If you are consistently using pelletized hops to bitter as I do, Table V also lists the utilization for pelletized, whole flower, and the average utilization. For all practical purposes, the conversion from mean value to Pelletized value is done by multiplying the mean value by 1.12. Similarly, the Whole Flower hop value is obtained by multiplying the mean value by 0.88.

On Figure 9 you can see that there are dashed upper and lower curves surrounding the main solid line utilization curve. The upper line is the expected utilization for a pelletized hop type. The lower curve is the expected utilization for the whole hop flower type.

I have used the pelletize hop value for simplicity in all examples. The Master Brewer software program will automatically choose the correct curve from your menu input and will factor in the correction required. If you use the mean solid line utilization curve, it will result in approximately a twelve percent error that may be acceptable in most home applications.

The specific gravity (SG) of the boiling medium modifies the bitterness utilization. A thick wort ( SG greater than 1.100) will not allow full utilization. To be exact, diminish the utilization by 30%. If your wort is very thick (SG greater than 1.200), diminish the utilization by 80%. Figure 10, Utilization Derating for SG, shows the derating factor (SGDF) that should be applied to the bittering utilization from Figure 9 and Table V. This compensation is also done automatically in the Master Brewer software program. Any person who must do these calculations should consider using the Master Brewer program.

In most homebrewing applications where the same recipe is used over and over again, consistent wort thickness is more important than actual wort thickness. If your SG is always between 1.035 and 1.050 your error would be less than five percent and you can remove the derating factor from your calculations.

To use Figure 10, look up the specific gravity of the boiling medium and determine the derating factor. Multiply this derating factor by the Utilization from Figure 9 or Table V. This will correct the utilization for boiling specific gravity. For example, at an SG of 1.050 the Derating Factor is 0.9. This 0.9 indicates that only 90% of the utilization can be expected.

Hint 18: A very good brewing pot can be made from a stainless steel, Single Valve Bud beer keg. Check with your supplier for where to get the top cut off.

Hint 19: Keep the boiling pot topped off with water to maintain a nominal specific gravity. Boiling removes about a quart of water every 15 to 30 minutes.

Plan your boil with Figure 6 or 9. Table V is for the math computations requiring Utilization. Over boiling will not kill bitterness as it does with flavor and aroma. The more you boil, the more bittering you get. The homebrewer should never boil hops for more than 90 minutes. If you must reduce the volume of the wort to increase the SG, reduce the volume by boiling before the start of the hop infusions.

I will compute, as an example, the utilization of each of the previously defined flavor and aroma schedules. Brewing does not require an understanding of the chemistry of utilization. However, brewers who do not consider utilization in their bittering are limiting themselves to recipe beers. I will use Table V to obtain the utilization for each boiling time. The utilizations for the Standard Schedules are tabulated in Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules.

The Standard Hop Schedules that will be used throughout this manual are for dividing the hop into three infusions for each of the schedule times. The utilization for any number of infusions can obtained by calculating the average of all individual utilizations.

For the 30 minute flavor schedule: Hops are added as 1/2 at 30 minutes, 1/2 at 28 minutes, and 1/2 at 26 minutes. The bitterness utilization for this schedule is the average of the three utilizations. From Table V, for a pelletized hop the utilizations for 30, 28, 26 minutes are 0.165, 0.147, and 0.129 respectively. Adding and dividing by three produces the average bitterness utilization for the 30 minute flavor infusion schedule:

	BU2 5 =	(0.121+0.105+0.090)	/ 3	=	0.105
	BU2 0 =	(0.084+0.073+0.064)	/ 3	=	0.073
	BU1 5 =	(0.061+0.056+0.052)	/ 3	=	0.057
	BU1 0 =	(0.051+0.049+0.048)	/ 3	=	0.049
For aroma:
	BU 1st =	(0.048+0.047+0.047)	/ 3	=	0.047
	BU2nd = (0.048+0.047+0.047)		/ 3	=	0.047
	BU3rd = (0.048+0.047+0.047)		/ 3	=	0.047

This concludes the discussion of the mathematics needed to compute the utilization of each of the standard schedules in this manual. You can use these utilizations time and again. You never have to go over the math again. The math was shown in detail to enable you to do anything you want with the schedules. The results are shown above and in Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules.

The homebrewing purpose for predicting your beer's bitterness is twofold. First, you will know how to change the bitterness. Second, you can plan a beer that will be True to Style.

The total bitterness of a beer is determined by six parameters: Total volume, alpha acid percent, hop weight, utilization, form or type and SG of the boil. The last two parameters are usually avoided in hand calculations. For the exact computation of IBU, use the Master Brewer program. It will leave you more time for brewing. Each of these six parameters can vary in any brew. Any variation will change the bitterness of a beer.

Unlike flavor and aroma, you must consider the hop variety used in the bittering. Each variety and each lot within that variety will have a different alpha acid percentage. This varies with process variations, dryness, and other factors. I recommend that bittering hops be purchased. The fortunate people who grow their own hops should use them for aroma and flavor. With the purchased hop, the bittering alpha acid percentage will be available from your supplier.

Example 1: Alpha Acid, Two beers are made identically except the hop. One beer was made with 1 ounce of a 5% alpha hop. The other was made with 1 ounce a 10% alpha hop. The latter would be approximately twice as bitter as the former. Hops of different alpha acid percentages have different absorption rates. The absorption rate change is usually beyond the scope of the homebrewer because there is no constant corrections available for this factor.

The Total Brewing Volume of you beer has a major effect on the bitterness of the beer. Volume changes the concentration of the bittering acids. Any change in the volume of a beer by the addition of a 2 Aroma,

a 3 Aroma, the priming liquids, or a change from the recipe measurements will change the bitterness of the

beer. Small variations of less than one-quart in a 5.5-gallon batch (<5%) will usually not be noticed.

Example 2: Total Volume, Two beers are made with everything the same except the volume. One beer was three gallons. The other beer was six gallons. The three-gallon batch is twice as bitter as the six-gallon batch.

Example 3: Hop Boil Time, Two beers are made with everything the same except the boiling time. In the first beer the hop pellets were boiled for thirty (30) minutes. In the other beer the hop pellets were boiled for sixty-six (66) minutes. Now look up the utilizations in Table V. The utilization for the thirty minute boil is 0.165. The utilization for the sixty-six minute boil is 0.33. The hop boiled for sixty-six minutes will make the beer twice as bitter as the hop boiled for 30 minutes.

Example 4: Hop Weight, Two beers are made with everything the same except the hop weight. The first beer has 1 ounce of hops boiled for thirty minutes. The other beer has 2 ounces of hops are boiled for 30 minutes. The beer with two ounces of hops is twice as bitter as the beer with one ounce of hops.

Example 5: Hop Form and/or Type, Two beers are made with everything the same except one is made with pelletized hops the other is made with whole hop flowers. If the wort is boiled for ninety (90) minutes the pelletized hop utilization will be 0.342 and the flower will have a utilization of 0.266. The result will be about a twenty-two percent shift in bitterness.

Example 6: Boiling SG, Two beers are made with everything the same except one is boiled with a SG

of 1.040 and the other has a boiling SG of 1.15 (usually caused by a very small boil pot). The SG utilization derating factors from Figure 10 are 0.95 and 0.43 respectively. This represents a reduction in bitterness of about fifty-five (55) percent for the thick wort.

Chemists can measure the Bitterness produced by a hop in a finished beer by measuring the amount of isohumulones in a known volume of the beer. Your local brewing supply shop can recommend a testing laboratory if you're interested. But why trouble over the abstract, get brewing. I always say, "It is better to taste a beer than to test a theory."

International Bittering Unit (IBU) is a measure of the milligrams per liter of the alpha acids of the hops in a beer. Just like Flavor and Aroma, add the individual contribution of each hop addition. Compute the Total IBU of a beer by simply adding all the Contributing IBUs. Each hop addition has its own IBU.

The calculations presented here for IBU is formulated in the American system. Conversions are given in Appendix B for other measuring systems. Although the European Brewery Congress and The American Society of Brewing Chemists use metric values in their calculations, I have simplified the math with one correction factor, 7489.

Weight is the weight of the hop used in U.S. Ounces. DAAP is the decimal value of the current alpha acid percent (that's the percent divided by 100). BU is the Bittering Utilization for the specific Hop Form (or Type) from Table V, Hop Utilization or the Schedule Bittering Utilization from Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules. SGDF is the SG Derating Factor from Figure 10, Utilization Derating Factor for SG. Volume is the total volume of beer in U.S. Gallons. Please note that the total volume includes the flavor, aroma, and priming liquids.

1 . Bittering hop is 1.25 Oz. of Hersbrucker pellet @ 4.7% alpha acid and boiled for 90 minutes. DAAP

2 . Flavor hop is 1 Oz. of Styrian Goldings pellet @4.5% alpha acid or a DAAP of 0.045. This will be

3 . Aroma hop is 1.5 Oz. of Saaz pellet with an alpha acid of 4.3% alpha acid or a DAAP 0.043. One third

Caution: Never use any published alpha acid percentage numbers unless you just want very rough numbers.

4 . The boiling wort SG is 1.050. From Figure 10, Utilization Derating Factor for SG, the SGDF is 0.91.

There will be a total of 6 U.S. Gallons. Five and one-half gallons in the basic beer. One quart (1/4 gallon) for the 2 aroma schedule. One pint (1/2 gallon) for the 3 aroma schedule. One pint (1/2 gallon) for the

Total volume = 51/2 + 1/4 + 1/2 + 1/2 = 6.0 gallons when finished. Using the IBU Equation (E-3) and the pellet utilization for 90 minutes from Table V.

Using the utilizations from the previous calculations we will now compute the bitterness from the flavor schedules. The results of the utilization calculations are presented in Table VII, Summary of Standard Hop Schedules, for easy reference.

The flavor schedule bitterness contribution calculations are shown here for an example of how to perform this calculations for any custom schedule you have. The calculations for the four standard schedules follow:

The aroma schedule utilizations come from the previous calculations and are also presented in Table VII.

Now we can compute the Total IBU or IBU for the German bier we have examined above by adding up all the individual IBUs:

I used such decimal accuracy for ease of demonstration. All IBU calculations should be rounded off to the whole numbers. for example, 30 for 30.34. As previously stated, the flavor and aroma contributions to the Total IBU are small and are often omitted for ease of calculations.

I recommend all the contributing IBUs be included since my flavor and aroma hops contribute about 25% to the total bitterness. The aroma contribution is about 11% and this may be considered within the error margins of the homebrewer and I would never insist that the aroma contribution be included. The more flavor and aroma hops used, the more the contribution to the total bitterness will be.

The Total Bitterness (IBU) of a beer is always equal to the sum of all the individual IBUs. There will always be differences between batches because of minor changes in your techniques. Utilization is altered by the boiling off of the water in the wort and by the timing of your water replenishment. Utilization depends on wort thickness and is constantly changing throughout the boil. The effect can be reduced by replenishing the wort volume with boiling water often.

Well, now that you can compute the IBU of a beer, what does it signify? Like flavor and aroma, I have arranged all the beers I have ever made into magnitudes of bitterness. Table VI, Bitterness Magnitude VS. IBU Range, is a relative chart but is very useful in deciding to change magnitude. Books are available from your homebrewing supplier that will give the IBU values for many world class beers. Keep your IBU within 2 to 3 IBU of the True to Style beer you are duplicating. IBU is important for any brewer trying to recreate a World Class Beer. The placement of IBU in Table VI is an aid in planning. Find the IBU of the beers you like. Plan your beer for that IBU and then recreate that IBU for yourself. The next chapter deals with planning your hop schedule.

The alpha acid percent for any hop blend, German, English, American, or whatever, is the weighted average of all the alpha acid percents of the individual components.

A blend is made up of one ounce of a hop with an Alpha Acid Percent of 5.1%, three ounces of a hop with an alpha acid percent of 4.3%, and two ounces of a hop with an alpha acid percent of 3.4%. The alpha acid percent of the blend is computed by dividing (the summation of each hops alpha acid percent times the number ounces of that hop) by the (total number of ounces used in the custom hop blend) as shown in the following demonstration calculation for the example:

I. The Total Volume of beer is the total volume of beer bottled or kegged, not the total volume of the wort boiled.

II. The steep slope of the utilization curve between 25 and 45 minutes should be avoided by the less experienced brewer.

III. Use Table V to find the utilization of non standard boiling schedules. Use Table VII for the utilization of all Standard Schedules.

IV. Use only current alpha acid percents. Never use the alpha acid published in any book. Published alpha acid levels will only be right when the moon is in proper relationship with the clothesline on 110 Street in Broad Brook, CT at the exact time the data was published.

V. Plan for easily divisible quantities of hops so you will not need a scale. One, two or four ounce packs are easier to divide into half, quarter, and eight ounce parts than three, five, seven, etc ounce packs.

VI. Make sure to keep your boil SG low to obtain maximum bitterness utilization.

VIII. If you must use the utilization corrections for boiling specific gravity and hop form, the Master Brewer is strongly recommended.

Beer, made from simple malt extracts, hopped or unhopped, will never measure up to the rich malty flavor and aroma of a World Class beer. A truly great beer requires the addition of specialty grains. Adding these specialty grains continues where hopping schedules leave off. Specialty grains, in combination with the hops and age, bring a beer into the World Class. The addition of these specialty grains is very easy. This chapter will show that if you can make coffee, you can use specialty grains.

From prohibition to 1979, malt was available in extract syrup form. "Blue Ribbon" malt extract was available in most food markets for around a buck a can. Nothing else was available. Brewers had to malt, roast, and mash grains from the feed store to get the toasted grain flavors. There was very little information available on malting, roasting, and mashing. Sometimes the malting process produced good malt, sometimes it rotted the grain.

After the legalization of beer making in 1979, beer ingredients became readily available. Because of competition in our capitalist market system, the quality and variety of these products has increased every year. Master kit blenders now design beer kits with an adequate blend of extracts and grain flavors for novice tastes. Specialty grains and hops are easily available to the true concoctor.

While a beer kit produces a decent beer when made with malt extract instead of sugar, kits are just not up to the discriminating taste of some brewers. They use kits when they want to make "Instant" beers in the summer: I say, Add two cans of malt and call me in a week.

Some people love to experiment. They strive to produce the perfect beer. Beer kits will never suffice. Many advanced brewers will dissipate extraordinary effort by the full mashing of whole grain malts and forget to add specialty malts to their grain bill.

I developed the Mini-Mash Process around 1968 to add the rich malt taste and aroma to supplement kit and extract beers. A Mini-Mash added to a beer approaches the complexity of malt flavors and aromas characteristic of a World Class beer. Mini-Mashing does this without the exertion of much time or energy. Because the quantities are small, the sparging is quick. Specialty grains do not have to be mashed. The Crystal Malts are sufficiently mashed in their roasting to allow their direct use in any beer except the lightest brews. Black and Chocolate malts are roasted to produce the aroma, flavor, and color. They have insufficient starches to concern yourself about. The starch in Roasted Barley, used in stouts and porters, will be concealed by the rich colors and flavors of the beers it is used in.

All brewers can benefit from the Mini-Mash. It enables them to add specialty whole grains to their everyday beers. The process is not a replacement for mashing. If you have six to 20,000 pounds of malt to deal with, you better full mash. Mashing efficiency for the Mini-Mash Process varies between 20% and 75%.

Use the Mini-Mash for any grain bill under a couple of pounds of grain. More grain is sometimes used when making specialty low alcohol (LA) beers but the Mini-Mashing becomes more difficult. The Mini-Mash process is to add body, flavor, and aroma to extract and kit beers. Do not use it to make the whole beer. Mini-Mashing allows you to add grain character to all your beers.

Enough talk, lets get grinding. You will derive an instant benefit in your beer. The grains will add a complex character to your beer. Grains add malt aroma, body, flavor, and color.

Mini-Mashing is performed by two methods. The first method is actually steeping. It is for the purpose of adding the color and flavor of specialty grains to your brew. The second method is mashing and is used to add the Munich and Vienna malts in small quantities.

If you do not hold to the temperatures and times, the Mini-Mash will still produce wonderful malt flavors and aroma. Mistakes with the Munich and Vienna malts make your brew a bit starchy but it will still be World Class. The beauty of the process is that it is full of safeguards. It can be off in times and temperatures and still produce a wonderfully complex brew. Mini-Mashing will usually require racking into a secondary fermenter to remove any trub left in the flavor water.

Like everything else in this manual, the Mini-Mash is not intended to make brewing a task. Brewing should be easy. When special care is required, such as not boiling the grain with the husks, I point it out. Everything else is just icing on the cake. Oh! Maybe, head on the beer.

Mini-Mashing is very simple when black, chocolate, crystal, and roasted barley are used. These grains have all the work done for you. All you have to do is extract the flavors, colors, and aromas. More effort is required with lager, ale, rice, and wheat malts that contain starch. These grains must be mashed to convert the starch into malt sugars. This is why there are two methods for the Mini-Mash. The following materials are required to Mini-Mash:

1. Boiling pot of stainless steel or enameled. The size should be about 6 to 8 quarts per pound of grain. Stainless steel stock pots and beer kegs are the best; enameled canning pots are OK. Never use iron or aluminum pots; the boiling wort is too acidic and will become metal tasting.

2. A coarse stainless steel kitchen strainer, available in any department store. It is the lauter tun of the Mini-Mash.

7. Heat from a stove or hot plate. A gas "Cajun" cooker is the best source of much instant heat for full mashing in a beer keg.

Hint 20: A great Lauter Tun is made from a 5-gallon donut bucket (obtainable from Bess Eaton or Dunkin Donuts for about a buck) and a nylon Sparging Bag. The bag is optional. Drill 1/16 (1/8 for the impatient) inch holes all over the bottom of the donut pail. The donut pail fits very nicely into any 6.7 or 7 gallon plastic fermenter that comes with a bail handle. A spigot should be installed in the outer fermenter.

1. Amylase Enzyme Formula: 1 teaspoon per pound of grain if lager, ale, or rice grains are used.

Hint 21: Never buy (pre) crushed grain. Always fresh grind your grains. Even if you butcher them in a blender, the taste will be better than with the (pre) crushed grains. Blenders work well if the grain in them is kept under 1/2 cup at a time. More grain causes the blender to powder the contents. The blender is not recommended for full grain mashing.

1 a, Use the grain mill to crack (crush) the grain husks open. Do not powder the grain. Powdered grain makes it very difficult to sparge if you are using a Lauter Tun. Grain powder will clog up any grain filter bed. Grain mills are available from your local homebrewing shop. If a grain mill is not available, use a rolling pin. An electric blender in the pulse mode can be used with 1/4 cups of grain at a time. Always fresh grind your grains.

1 b, Prepare 3 to 5 gallons of Mini-Mash water by adding gypsum or water crystals to all the water you will be using to mix, mash, and sparge the grains. Use 1/2 to 2 teaspoons per gallon of water. These minerals will harden the water, promote starch conversion in grains with starch, and lessen the harshness in a beer from the grain hulls.

1 c, Cover the grain to be Mini-Mashed with room temperature water. Use about 1 quart of treated water per pound. Let soak for about 15 minutes.

Hint 22: The grain liquid should NEVER be boiled with the grain husks. Boiling the grain hulls will cause an unpleasant bitter taste.

2 a, Pour just enough of the prepared boiling water into the grain to raise the temperature to 165°F +5°F. Maintain this temperature for about 10 minutes to extract all the grains' goodness.

2a, Pre-heat the oven to about 150°F. Close is good enough. Some ovens will only say warm but this will work fine. Place one oven rack in the bottom of the oven and another rack immediately over the first. On the lower rack, place a large cookie sheet full of water. This will disperse the direct oven heat from the bottom of the mash pot.

2 b, Pour just enough of the boiling water into the grain to raise the temperature to desired mashing temperature from the chart below.

2 c, Add the Amylase Enzyme Formula to the grain and water and stir well. Perform a preliminary Iodine test to see the iodine's color reaction to the raw starch in the mash. Use one teaspoon of the mash and one drop of iodine. Note the distinct color change, iodine to dark purple, due to the presence of the starch. Discard the test liquid in a safe area as iodine is a poison.

Mashing Temperatures

(For Lager, Ale, Rice, and Wheat Grain Malts)

LIGHT BEERS: 145°F to 151°F
HEAVY BEERS: 150°F to 157°F

2 d, Cover and maintain the desired temperature range from the chart above for about 30 to 90 minutes. The mashing is over when all the starch is converted. Complete starch conversion is verified by repeating the preliminary iodine test. When the iodine does not change color, the starch conversion is complete. This is where the oven is very useful. The oven's heat will slow the transfer of heat from the Mini-Mash pot and make the maintaining of the mash temperature simple.

2 e, Pour enough boiling treated Mini-Mash water into the grain to raise the temperature to 165°F +5°F. Maintain this temperature for about 10 minutes while stirring to extract all the grains' goodness.

The easy way: This method is may be used with small (less than 1Y2 pounds) quantities of grain that will fit into a strainer.

Strain the grain with the coarse kitchen strainer. This limits the amount of grain but easy is good. After the first rich liquid is drained off the grain, return the grain to the pot and add a few quarts of hot (165°F +5°F) water. Stir up the grain and water again. Pour the grain through the strainer again, collecting the less rich liquid into the container with the first rich liquid.

The hard way: This method is necessary with larger quantities (1Y2 pounds and over) of grain that will not fit into a strainer .

Slowly pour the grain and liquid into a lauter tun with the outer bucket's spigot turned off. After the liquid flow through the grain has slowed down (filter bed is formed), open the spigot and collect all the initial run off into any suitable container. Turn the spigot off again. Pour the initial runoff on top of the grain bed. Replace the container under the spigot. Reopen the spigot and collect the filtered liquid.

When the grain has processed most of the liquid through it, slowly pour fresh treated Mini-Mash water (at 165°F +5°F) onto the top of the grain filter bed. Continue to collect the Mini-Mash liquid in the container. When the liquid runs at a very light color stop sparging. Over sparging will bitter the beer.

4 a, Rapidly swirl the coarse strained liquid. If the liquid is light in color you can see the grain particles collect in the bottom of the pot, otherwise let the Mini-Mash liquid settle for about fifteen (15) minutes. Syphon off the clear liquid into a boiling pot.

4 b, The liquid is now a rich malty grain extract that can be used in any boiled beer recipe. If you do not want to use a boil recipe, the Mini-Mash liquid should be boiled for at least thirty (30) minutes to get a good hot break, rapidly cooled to obtain a good cold break, and then step 4a, above, should be repeated to remove the unwanted settled proteins.

This liquid is excellent to boil the bittering, flavor, and aroma hops with your unhopped malt extracts. Whether you use it as a supplement to your extract brewing or make your entire beer from grain malts, the process is essentially the same. Only the quantity and type of grains determine the steps and precautions you must take. Making beer from all grain is something every brewer should consider but this subject is large and warrants a complete book.

What is available for your grain bill? Grains that you can use in the Mini-Mash are briefly described below. This description will allow you to see the types of grains suitable for Mini-Mash.

BLACK Malt, or Black Patent Malt, is a grain malt kilned at a very high temperature. It is the French Roast of the beer world. High temperatures during roasting carbonize the malt. This malt contains no fermentable sugars. It adds a burnt caramel flavor and increases the beer's head retention. Black malt should be used sparingly. Two or Three ounces will give five-gallons of beer a nice brown color. Half a pound will make it black. It takes more than 6 ounces to detect the flavor in a beer. Use it in all porters and stouts. Mary says to use black grain in porters and leave the stouts to roasted barley but you do it your way. That is what this manual is all about. The simple Mini-Mash is all that is required for black malt.

CARA-PILS Malt, or dextrin malt, is a special variation on crystal malt. Its final kilning temperature is lower than crystal malt to prevent the malt sugars turning into caramel. Use cara-pils to add body, sweetness, and smoothness to light beers. Usage depends on individual taste: 1/4 to 1Y2 pounds per batch are normal. This grain slows fermentation and can be replaced by light German crystal malt in all recipes. Be careful that the fermentation goes to completion. Experienced brewers have been fooled by this grain. The simple Mini-Mash is all that is required for Cara-Pils malt.

CHOCOLATE Malt is a wonderfully colored and flavored malt. It is made by roasting pale malt at a slightly lower temperature than black malt. Its roasting gives a smooth toasted nut flavor to a beer. It has no enzymes and very little fermentable sugars. This is a perfect color and flavor additive to all beers and ales. As little as 1 ounce in 5 gallons of beer will add a rich brown color. Use 6 ounces, or more, to flavor 5 gallons of beer. Usage depends on individual taste: 1/4 to 1 pound per 5.5 gallons are normal. The simple Mini-Mash is all that is required for chocolate malt.

CRYSTAL Malt (a.k.a. caramel malt) is a special malt. It has already been mashed during its special malting process (Stewing). The maltster has already done the work for us. Crystal malt is roasted at different temperatures to produce malts that range in color from light to dark. Crystal malt adds body, sweetness, smoothness, color and caramel flavor to beer. It also aids in head retention. The use of a dark malt is obvious in dark beers but the addition of two or three malts will build a complex flavor. Y2 to 1Y2 pounds per batch are normal. The simple Mini-Mash is all that is required for all crystal malts and I recommend that it not be crushed more than a few hours before brewing time. I keep light and dark German crystal malts on hand at all times. The mix can be blended to make any color crystal malt that is required.

MÜNCHEN malt (a.k.a. Munich malt) is not a specialty malt. It is high temperature kilned to provide full malt flavor and aroma in many German beers, see recipes. It is usually lighter than Vienna malt and will add a gold color to most beers. Y2 to 20 pounds per 5.5 gallons are normal. Munich malt requires the more complex Mini-Mash for "Other Grains". Any recipe requiring a pound or less Munich malt can be made simpler by substituting light crystal malt to remove the complex mashing requirements.

VIENNA malt is a not a specialty malt. It is high temperature kilned to provide full malt flavor and aroma. It is usually darker than Munich Malt and will aid in the development of a rich amber color in Märzen (Oktoberfest) and Vienna beers. Y2 to 15 pounds per 5.5 gallons are normal. Vienna requires the more complex Mini-Mash for "Other Grains". Any recipe requiring a pound or less Vienna malt can be made simpler by substituting light crystal malt to remove the complex mashing requirements.

WHEAT malt is a not a specialty malt. It requires mashing. Use wheat malt extract syrup for the wheat grain required by some recipes. It makes life much easier. I like the effect wheat gives my beers. Wheat malt will give a beer a clean dry taste and a great head. Usage depends on individual taste, 2 ounces to 1Y2 pounds per 5.5 gallons are normal. Wheat malt requires the more complex Mini-Mash for "Other Grains" and will add some extra time to your brewing. The note on the next page explains how to get around this by substituting wheat MES for the wheat grain. Contrary to the opinions of some brewers, wheat malt is allowed by the Reinheitsgebot because it is a malt.

Excellent wheat malt extract syrups are available from the USA, Germany, and the UK. Some are pure wheat malt and others are a blend of 55% wheat and 45% barley malt syrup. Wheat malt extract syrups are also available in 1Y2, 3.3, 4, and 6.6 pound cans and can be substituted for wheat grain in any concoction.

Use a pound of wheat malt extract syrup for each pound of wheat malt grain. The conversion is not exact but then what in life is perfect. I will always vote for the easy way out.

ROASTED BARLEY, or black barley, is not a malt and violates the Reinheitsgebot. It is used in traditional Irish and English ales and stouts. Roasted barley is used like chocolate and black malts. The flavor and color are different but it will have the same effect. Roasted barley, in small amounts is used to give a red color to a beer or ale. Usage depends on individual taste, 1/4 to 23/4 pounds per 5.5 gallon batch are normal. The simple Mini-Mash is all that is required for roasted barley.

LAGER & ALE malts are not specialty malts. These malts can be avoided in making any extract beer since by using extracts you have chosen not to mash in the first place. Why complicate your love affair with beer by making a lot of busy work for little or no gain. Lager and ale malts require the more complex Mini-Mash for "Other Grains." Substituting crystal malts in recipes calling for lager and ale malts will save considerable time and effort.

TOASTED MALTS are made by roasting or toasting lager and ale malts in an oven to bring out special colors and flavors. These malts can be made by holding the malts at 375°F for ten to fifteen minutes. Toasted malts will add rust color to the beer. If ale and lager malts are used the toasted malt will have to be processed by the more complex Mini-Mash for "Other Grains." Using crystal malts will eliminate this extra requirement.

RAUCH MALTS are made by smoking the malts to be used in a smoker or outdoor barbecue. Many variations are possible for the flavor. Use oak, aspen, hickory, peat, grape vines, or donkey dung to obtain different effects.

Note: Some concoctors prefer to add Liquid Smoke such as produced by R. Colgin, Inc. Dallas, Texas. It is available in most supermarkets. This product does contain some sugar so be sure to add during fermentation and not at bottling time.

II. The addition of any grains to a beer will require a secondary fermentation in a different fermentation vessel. Any trub remaining in the Mini-Mash liquid should be removed after the violent primary fermentation is over. Here some brewers use a glass carboy. I usually do not because of the weight of the full carboy. For the past ten years, I have not found any problem with using plastic pails for the finishing out of the fermentation.

III. Always use fresh crushed grain for your beer. Powdered grain is not a large problem with a Mini-Mash less than one pound of grain but will slow the sparging of large quantities of grain to an agonizing snails pace.

IV. Black, chocolate, crystal malts and roasted barley require no mashing. Like coffee, you just brew up the flavor and aroma and then remove the hulls.

V. A kitchen oven set to 150°F is a good way to maintain the temperature for 30 minutes to an hour. Be sure to use a large cookie sheet, filled with water, between the mash and heater element to keep direct heat off the mash.

VI. The Mini-Mash is not something fancy. We want flavor, aroma, and body from the grain, not fermentable sugars, when extract and kit brewing. Keep sparging to a minimum.

VII. Stirring is very important, even if you use the oven. Lack of stirring causes hot spots and enzyme deficient areas in the Mini-Mash. Also, if you do not stir, the thermometer will not read true temperatures.

IX. The Mini-Mashing Process is like making coffee. Contamination ruins beer, not improper Mini-Mashing. Fresh ground grains are important to World Class beers. If you appreciate the taste of fresh ground coffee beans, from your favorite coffee shop, never buy pre-ground grains.

X. Recycle the draft. The spent grain is good mulch for all plants and some of our birds like to eat it.
XI Torrefied grain is not used in German beers and shall not be covered in this manual.

It is very useful to know what a beer will be like before you mix the ingredients. A good approximation of a new beer's parameters will take the guess work out of designing your hop schedule. This chapter explains how to predict these parameters. It will teach you to approximate the starting, terminal, and bottle gravities of a beer. In addition you will have some knowledge of the alcohol content. Designing your beer True to Style is a snap when you know its parameters before brewing. Although only approximations, these parameters give you the edge needed to develop a complex concoction.

Starting (original) gravity, terminal (final) gravity, bottle (apparent) gravity, and alcohol content are the important design parameters of the beer. These parameters will allow you to concoct a beer similar to a World Class Beer. The Hopping Schedule development, covered in Chapter X, Planning Your Hop Schedules, is dependent on the terminal gravity of the beer. Terminal gravity defines the amount of malt the hop must balance in a beer.

Degree Of Extract (DOE) is the brewer's way of quantifying the extracts they buy or make. The DOE is simple to define and measure. If you dissolve 1 pound of something in enough water to make 1 U.S. gallon, the gravity measured for that mixture is the DOE. All DOEs in this manual are in units of U.S. pounds and gallons. Note: Some books have Imperial (British) or metric DOEs and must be converted before using in the American system.

Example No. 1: One pound of malt extract is mixed with enough water to make one gallon of liquid. After mixing is complete, the measured specific gravity of the liquid is 1.036 (gravity = 36, brewers gravity = 1036). The Degree Of Extract (DOE) of that malt extract is 36.

Calculate DOE by this simple equation. The Volume is the number of U.S. Gallons. This Gravity is the gravity reading from a hydrometer. The Weight is the weight in U.S. pounds of the product in the liquid.

Example No. 2: 6.6 pounds of malt extract is mixed with enough water to make up 51/2 Gallons of beer. After mixing is complete, the measured specific gravity of the liquid is 1.043 (gravity 43, brewer's gravity 1043). Use the DOE equation (E-4) to calculate the DOE.

If we switch the variables in the above equation, we get a new equation to predict gravity.

Gravity Equation: E-5

Example No. 3: The volume of liquid is 5 gallons. The weight of the dark malt extract syrup used is 6 pounds. Look up the DOE in Table IX, Degree of Extract & Color. For this malt the DOE is 36. Substitute these values into the gravity equation above.

A 5-gallon batch of beer made with 6 pounds of dark malt extract syrup will have a gravity of 43 (specific gravity = 1.043, brewer's gravity = 1043). The above examples work in the American system of measures. When you read an English brewing book, remember that their DOE is different. The English DOE is for the Imperial system and not U.S. system.

Example #4:	The ingredients (grain bill) for 5'/2 gallons of beer are:
3.3	lbs.	Light Malt Extract Syrup
1	lbs.	Light Crystal Malt (Mini-Mashed)
2'/2	lbs.	Light Dry Malt Extract
11/4	Cups	Light Dry Malt Extract for PRIMING

Terminal Degree of Extract (TDOE), is similar to DOE. The terminal or final gravity of a beer is predicted using TDOE. Terminal gravity is used to compute bottle gravity. Bottle gravity is used in the planning of a hop schedule. The TDOE data presented in Table IX, Degrees of Extract & Color, are experimental. TDOE is the result of years of logging the finished gravities of beers. Terminal gravity differs from bottle gravity because the latter has the priming material included. DOE and TDOE will vary with each lot of ingredients used. Alcohol content affects the TDOE. The addition of champagne or other high attenuating yeasts will also affect the TDOE. This is why the predictions are approximate. Because of the small amount of the specialty grains used in Mini-Mashing, the errors associated with mashing efficiency are insignificant.

Use the DOE and TDOE of each ingredient to predict the initial and end conditions of a beer. With DOE and TDOE, prediction is simple. Just multiply the DOE and TDOE of each ingredient by the weight of that ingredient used. Then add all the results and divide by the total volume of the beer.

Dry Malt Extract (DME or the U.K.'s Spraymalt) has an approximate density of 0.375 pounds per cup. See Appendix. For concocting purposes the 11/4 cups of DME used for priming is 11/4 cups times 0.37 pounds per cup or .46 pounds (I round this off to 0.45 for neatness). Table IX, Degrees of Extract & Color, provides the following information:

DOE for light malt extract syrup is 34. The TDOE is 6. DOE for the Crystal Malt is 18. The TDOE is 12.

Ingredient Original Wt. Terminal Wt.

Malt Syrup 3.3# x 34 3.3# x 6

Crystal 1# x 18 1# x 12

Dry Malt Extract 2.5# x 39 2.5# x 9

Priming Malt 0.45# x 39 0.45# x 9

Do the Multiplication:

Malt Syrup 112.2 19.8

Now to go on, I will make up a table of the facts known, then I will multiply the DOE of each ingredient by the weight of each ingredient. Organize your data as follows:

Crystal	18.0	12.0
Dry Malt Extract	97.5	22.5
Priming Malt	17.6	4.0

The effective start and finished gravities are required to predict the alcohol content of a beer. Neither value should be used to determine the completion of fermentation. These computations are performed using experimental data and are for planning only. To figure out the Effective Start Gravity (ESG) and the Apparent Bottle Gravity (AG) use the equations below. Note: ESG and AG both include the fermentable sugars from Priming.

Compute the alcohol content of the beer with two simple formulas. These formulas are more intricate than those found in most brewing books because they are corrected for high alcoholic content beers. These formulas are for beers with initial specific gravity are as low as 1.015 or as high as 1.160. When you make a special beer, you should know what the alcoholic content is for "Safety." See Appendix C.